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The boost gauge will be on the intake side. It sure reads as if you have several small leaks. There are ways to check for leaks. Here is a video of doing that: Since I think you have the center mount turbo. You can pressure test through the turbo and into the 3 piece intake.

After the hose mentioned above is replaced. The next most likely leak is the o-rings on the throttle shaft. They probably won’t leak with the engine off or cold. Shining a light on either side of the IP with the engine warmed up and running might show you the leak. That is how 3 of mine have...

Great!

I have removed all of them without issue on several trucks in the past. However, I can not remember if I used the socket, a combination wrench or something else. Have you tried moving the shifter to maybe get clearance?

Inside the tank the fuel pick up could have rust holes. The hose from the pickup to the fuel pipe could leak in air. The hose between the pipe and the fuel pump could be the issue. The fuel pump could have a bad diaphragm. The metal pipe from the fuel pump to the passenger side valve cover could...

Did you lock your front hubs in for driving in the snow? I agree about the filter not causing a mpg drop. There is more drag somewhere. Hubs locked, sticking front caliper, parking brake hanging on and similar.

A lot depends on the off set of your wheels. Here is a video showing stock fenders, kind of cut fenders and then fenders cut even more. I would suggest mounting the front wheels and tires. Then lifting each side of the front axle as far as you can and then try turning the wheel lock to lock...

GM went to the Korean built reduction drive starter around the time they came out with the 6.5 engine. It was cheaper to build and lighter. Good and Good from their point of view. The military supply chain had to switch over as well. I actually like the old heavy straight US made Delco...

That is a good question. I will have to go look at my stash when it warms up a bit. Practicality wise I don’t remember any notation in the TM and there is no difference that I can think of in function. Just clean them all, put in the bulbs and test before you install in the truck.

Civilian screws are what you need. My problem has always been the plastic clip in thread inserts. They don’t let the screws hold the light in place. Putting a nut and flat washer on the engine side of the adjuster bolt works wonders. Yes, you will have to use two hands to adjust your lights...

Here is a video about the starters, brackets and bolts: You need the bracket. Don’t try starting the engine again until you have the proper one installed! Yes, that sounds over dramatic. I have 2 blocks that have the outside screw hole broken off. The block just cracks off out there. I got...

Removing the resistor in the glow plug circuit is a fairly common practice. It does have a few down sides which you mentioned. Here is a video about bypassing the resistor issues.

I have debated myself about putting one of those lights in my M715 , M35’s and M1009’s for years now. Having a smart phone almost always in hand the past decade or so had pretty much pushed the light out of my mind as a need. However, your install makes me want to go do it. I like it.

Your knowledge of aluminum 2 core compared to stock 4 core in post #5 is good to read. I have a stock radiator that I will try and measure later this evening. I can’t right now. I have vehicles on both sides of the copper-aluminum debate. I will let others keep arguing that but state I think...

Dang. Beat me by 7 minutes and with pictures. Don’t watch football and try posting at the same time. It slows you down.

Page 17-1 of the -34P Technical Manual shows the gasket which they call a Grommet nonmetallic with part number 15530620. It doesn’t show the screen you mentioned. I have 5 CUCV trucks, 14 6.2 or 6.5 engine and none of them have that screen. I don’t recall seeing it on other trucks either. I...

Preventive maintenance wise changing the glow plugs when you live some where with expected 0° nights is a pretty wise choice every 2 years. As pointed out Doug it sure beats doing it on a cold dark rainy night. The rest of us though can normally get 5-10 years or more out of a set of 60G glow...

Mechanical lift pump psi testing. I have a gauge on my M715. Between the metal hard line above the passenger valve cover and the fuel filter. It bounces between 5-8 psi with the engine running. But, never below 4. I just walked out and looked at the mechanical gauge and it reads 5 psi and I...

The “Normal oily sludge in the middle” is not normal. The valley should be dry. I don’t have a center mount turbo so I will let others comment.

Those return hose leaks are sneaky. Often I will get a smell of diesel when walking by the truck when it is not running. Then I can look and often do not see any liquid. Starting the engine sometimes will maybe or maybe not show the spot as you have found out. A good flashlight with the engine...