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I have four 8' sticks of new aircraft seat track. I'm hoping to mount some 1' sections in the bed and under the seat to provide tie-down points for different boxes= sort of a modular set-up. Off-road recovery gear in a box, around town gear in a box, etc. I'm just not sure I can access the...
It's a somewhat lengthy description for a relatively short process. I started by stripping everything out of the bar and cleaning it up good. I painted the top OD green.
Then I took a hacksaw blade and carefully cut the very top of the reflector cups off (it has three notches to accept the...
Mine does- I think that's normal. When I got the truck and did the first oil change I greased up the tie rods- the grease chased a little rusty water out. The steering still feels tight, so I'm dragging my feet on swapping them out.
I reassembled the steering stabilizer with a light coating...
I modded a Whelen Edge lightbar for mine. I modified the reflector cups to accept some 35 watt HIDs. Here's the set-up:
Six forward facing 35 watt HIDs
Two 55 watt halogen bulbs in the angled reflectors
Two 55 watt alley lights
The entire front of the bar has clear lenses
To the rear, I have...
Swapped the steering stabilizer out for a new one; no drama.
I'm wondering if I need new tie-rod ends, one has a torn grease boot and they all seem to have more play than I think is good (but I'm no expert).
So it sounds like the 40 amp fuse is perfect then. It'll allow the lights at ~38 amps, but blow above 40.
I tested them out this morning on my drive to work and they're some kind of bright, just pointed much too low. I'll run them intermittently until I get the proper solenoid.
Well, color me chagrined. I stopped at NAPA after work to pick up the heavier duty solenoid, got it home and it's the same one that had the meltdown. So a 200 amp solenoid melted down running 900 watts of lights? I wish I was good at math....
Well, it's made in China, so maybe I just got a...
Mine does the same thing every now and then. Big CLICK, then nothing. Try again and it starts right up. I always thought it was a starter shim issue from reading in here. Whatever it is it jams up, then once the starter and solenoid is de-energized it figures itself out.
I finally got the landing lights wired up.
So here's the run-down:
8 gauge wire from the 24V bus bar- a very short run to the fuse.
8 gauge wire from the fuse to the solenoid.
8 gauge wire from the solenoid to just shy of the lights, where it splits into two 10 gauge wires, one to each light...
So what did the driver of the Dodge have to say for himself?
Good to hear you survived mostly intact. I imagine his airbag might have abraded his face a little, but he suffered no injuries.
I used the richingalveston bracket set-up to mount the landing lights on the grill. I didn't weld the brackets though, since I don't have a welder (or the mad skilz to use it), but they're on securely.
I would have had them wired if any one store stocked all the connectors I needed.
With a lot of modification, could a clutch be made from an AC compressor clutch? Those engage electrically.
I also remember seeing an electrically engaged clutch on a supercharger in one of the Mad Max movies....
Seriously though, wouldn't it be easier (and cheaper) to just drive around the...
For mine, I pulled all the strobes out and modified the forward-firing reflector cups to accept some HID lamps. For the angled reflectors on each outer end I drilled a hole in the center and installed the bulb holders from some cheapo off-road lights and installed 55watt H3 bulbs. On the back I...
I haven't had any problem driving on the military bases (McChord AFB, Bangor Navy Base, or NUWC Keyport) with the lightbar on mine. If I added the stenciling "Military Police" I might get some grief.
Speaking of...
OP, are you going to be adding a lightbar to the roof...
In lieu of starting a whole thread for a hopefully simple question....
My M1009 seems to be sitting a little low in the back. I'm not interested in putting a lift on it, and I really don't want to dump a ton of money into new springs, so I need a cheap way of getting the back-end up to level...
Is the ground wire that's connected by the outboard coolant overflow bottle bracket attached?
I'm not sure what that grounds but I almost forgot to reattach it once when replacing the bottle.