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i'm in complete disagreement with this (which has been stated by several others in opposition to hydro-boost retrofits), for two reasons: as long as the manual trans is still present and functioning, then the engine will still be turning and, therefore, powering the hydraulic pump. all modern...

i concur that it could be more effective if fed from a coolant source other than engine coolant. this is how modern ATW intercoolers are setup. however, i still think the effectiveness will be limited due to the lack of surface area available for heat transfer and minimum time that the IAC is...

seriously? i used google to find forums of folks stating their experience. you do know that there are more forums than this one, right? and, i'm sorry, what does age have to do with anything? i am so ****ing tired of the condescension on this site if you're not a old codger. let me get...

in your first few pictures, how do you gain access to apply lock nuts or washers to the inside for, example, the bolts that fasten through the bottom of the frame rail? did you tack nuts inside before final assembly? are these lock-nuts? if not, are you using a thread-locker?

and you'd be wrong in your assumption. i did lots of reading of forums and other google search results looking for answers yesterday. there were many folks asking about whether this worked or not. a resounding majority of responses were [paraphrasing] "yes, mainly on limited slips." i...

yep, but not for open differentials. nope. ditto to the 'nope.' applying braking pressure (via hand/park/E- brakes or riding the whoa-pedal) only works for traction-aiding differentials. it does not help with open differentials. here's why: limited slip differentials work off of a...

using brakes on open differentials will not add traction, period.

i am much more aligned with your thoughts here than the popular myth about the intake manifold as a cooler, for the same reasons you've stated. the LDT/LDS turbos don't create enough IAC pressure (and therefore, heat) for engine coolant to be a viable cooling medium. even if it were, the IAC...

actually, it doesn't. re-read bjorn's results and compare them to any other IAC cooling means and you'll find that the drop in IAC temp is negligible. (something like 11°F of temp drop at 10-12 psi? this will likely net zero measureable increase in power output.) besides, the non-turbo'd...

diagonally or laterally?

weld that front cross-plate onto the hanger extentions - those 6 bolts don't give me the warm and fuzzy thinking about the lateral forces exerted due to leverage.

what's the idle set at? might need to be raised if too low...

you're looking at more than just money for the P-pump; the front cover, injector lines, and injectors will all need to be replaced/modified. better off staying w/ the VE style that you have.

no, that is not a Bosh P7100.

Intercooler or Aftercooler. no, it isn't. A. the same manifold is used on the non-turbo'd motors; meaning that the intake was never designed to 'cool' a compressed IAC. B. even if it was, the results documented on this site by a member's testing yielded an 11°F drop in IAC temp at 12 psi...

Ouverson.

bungee cords are $10,000 each.

"... and the windows seal up like original." some people might think that's a good thing. deuce owners realize that it isn't.

ah, yes to both accounts: i misinterpreted your post and i agree on the 'concensus' without legitimate supporting documentation.

i'm not sure. if it was a 2nd gen i'd say you are describing the fuel bowl heater (which is worthless and useless). BUT, i don't know on a 1st gen. take some pics. i'd've thought that some good engine diagrams were easy to find for 1st gens but that's not proving to be the case... :roll: