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3/8-16X1.5in national coarse thread. The spec on these bolts is grade 5, I used grade 8 and blue thread locker when I had my trans rebuilt. Your choice.
I would use the ORD system, but leave the manual setup just in in case. The freeze plug type block heater is the way to go in cold climates. Put it on a timer set for approx 3 hrs before start time, and you should be good to go.
Start simple and change the fuel filter first. You should allways do PM on these trucks when you first aquire them, meaning engine oil service, air, fuel, and trans filters. Check/change front and rear differential and transfer case oil. Grease front end and driveline fittings.
Interesting. How do you wire it to only lockup in 4th? I had a 130-70244 B&M lockup controller at first,$160.00. It crapped out, so I wired the lockup through an old school floor mounted dimmer switch. I have hands free lockup controll with this setup. I also installed an external spin on trans...
Here's a pic of the TV cable bracket. The linkage rod is hidden under the intake manifold, so I coulden't get a good pic of that. The rod end with the long slot connects to the bottom of the steel bracket on the throttle linkage. On the TV cable end, the cable connects to the rod with a flat...
The bracket is bolted to the rear of the driver side head where the GP controller temp switch is. The switch will go up through the large hole in the center of the bracket. You may have to remove the switch, mount the bracket and reinstall the switch. The cable snaps into the square hole in the...
I'd get a new one to be on the safe side, ft brakes are nothing to fool with. 81-87 front proportioning valve $78.88 www.carolinaclassictrucks.com no part#.
I think using the fill hose from a fleetside pickup bed will solve the geometry problem. The vent tube cannot be deleted or blocked off. LMC truck has the fill neck for gasser trucks from that era that will work for the pass side. They don't have the flapper door in them. They are pricy though...
A new stock starter relay? You do understand the whole point in the doghead starter relay mod right? The stock relay is prone to failure. Do the doghead mod, and if you still have a no start issue, search the TMs and threads. This thread is for those who have or have not done the mod.
There is really no need to replace the cap. It can be cleaned with degreaser spray and water or brakecleen. After cleaning, shake the cap, if it rattles it's good to go, if not then clean it again. Let it dry naturally after cleaning.
The CDR valve is most likely clogged or damaged preventing the spring and diaphragm from working properly. It will dump excessive blow by gases and oil into the intake. It can be cleaned or replaced. Replacing it is a better option.
:ditto:I would also stay with the stock rollups. The power window wiring harness would have to be removed from the donor suburban in tact and might prove frustrating. It runs under the carpet and of course up through the door pillars. I was going to try this with my S15 Jimmy, the effort didn't...
Thanks Rick, I had assumed the 6.5 heads were being used seeing as there is a head gasket job involved with the swap and using the 6.5s is really the right way to do it.:)
Read the first paragraph in my reply. As far as the lines leaking, yes they may leak as they are not lined up properly to the injector, they may not leak at first, but may leak down the road due to vibration.
use the 6.5 injector lines, the bends are slightly different and are matched to the alignment of the 6.5 injectors. If you used 6.5 turbo injectors, you may want to advance the IP timing. WARNING- This should be left to a professonal, you could easilly burn up the engine if this is done wrong...
I also paid $6k for mine, bought it site unseen and I think I got a decent deal. The truck was also mint, with adsolutely no rust anywhere, it looked like it came out of a time capsule. It came with a one year old Banks turbo, 700R4 conversion, 285 hankook tires and a brand new diamond plate...
There are 7 M1031s up for auction on ************ as we speak. Historically, 1031s have less than 25k miles on them by the time they hit the auction block. Most i've seen are super clean an seem to have been taken care of a little better than most CUCVs. IMHO, 4K is below average for an M1031...