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m38inmaine - PM Sent. Timberwolf - Did I ever respond to you? I do have more sockets if you still want one. ALL STEEL SOLDIERS MEMBERS: If you want one of these sockets, DO NOT order it through Ebay. LOOK at the description on Ebay, if you want one contact me through this forum, the SS price...

I would suspect the new zippered boots are new manufacture. The two I bought for Saturn, they are a pretty tough neoprene material that does NOT flip inside out so you can install the inner clamp as the TM shows. It is a b*tch to install them as you have to work the inner clamp over the axle...

Important point - The clamps have to be installed at the TOP of the axle housing, not at the front as the pic in the TM shows. If the inner clamp is at the front (or rear) of the housing, the knuckle will push the clamp (and boot) off the housing. Been there, done that. Three times before I got...

RE: where to buy nylon line? I don't know about "Nylon 11", but most of the local hardware stores like True Value and Ace and many auto parts stores have nylon tubing in bulk in many sizes. I suspect any of these would be an acceptable replacement for "Nylon 11".

Where do you find those manuals? LOGSA seems only to list certain TMs. I have not been able to locate any of the manuals listed in the PS magazine displayed a few posts above. Does anyone have electronic copies they load up into the TM section?

Just remember, Deuces DO NOT go up hills fast, unless you make a few mods. Deuces are designed for moderate highway speeds, like 40-50 MPH, but mostly for low speed and off road tactical uses. You CAN mod a Deuce to go up hills really fast, but not for very long before you blow up some really...

If you are running only a very light 12V load drawing only a few amps,then a tap off the dogbone would probably be OK. If you are running a moderate load, like a radio, a 24V-12V converter should work fine. If you are running a significant 12V load requiring a lot of 12V power,than a 24V...

It took me less than 15 mins. to drill and tap my exhaust manifold. Taking off all the pieces so I could get to the turbo to remove it and reinstalling everything was about a 4 hour job!

MY ERROR! Yes, by all means I should have said PRE TURBO pyrometer. Original posting has been correcter. Thanks for the sharp eye, Ken.

RE: to the unjection pump? Sounds like someone severly fu*ked up you truck! The alcohol injection goes to the air compressor to dry out the air system. The ether start system (the orange bottle) goes to the intake manifold IN PLACE OF the flame heater. The ether injector fitting itself is in...

I also am due a Multi from GL in the near future. It is a non torbo, but it looks like a cherry engine and your turbo parts are a bolt on swap. PM me if interested, I can send some pics when the engine gets here. GL sucks, it took them so long to get the paperwork flowing that by the time it got...

OK - Lets get serious and summarize here: 1. FORGET nitro or propane unless you are a real freak. 2. INSTALL a PRE turbo pyrometer so you know what your engine is doing BEFORE you fry your turbo (which is easily done if you do not monitor your EGT). 3. Crank up your fuel adjustment untill you...

Chuck always comes up with the good ideas. Must come from his training as a LEO. IF you have the time and a low budget, a QUALITY (NOT a Harbor Freight special) wire brush on an angle grinder strips off old paint, rust, and everything else very quickly. It will also NOT damage areas where rust...

Bjorn - From the pic, it looks like a "C" turbo. Am I right? Don't need one (at least yet), just wondering if I learned enough to differentiate between the two turbos!

I hate to disagree with abh3, but what he suggests is a VERY BAD IDEA! It will work for a while, but running a a constant 12v source from one of your batteries is going to screw up BOTH batteries. The current load needs to be equalized between both batteries. If you tap off 12V from the dogbone...

I have a brand new, never used, just out of the box (by me) subdued bridge plate set. Ditto on what BFR said.

Lube with CLP or Prolong as mentioned above MAY free up your airpack and save you a rebuild. It seems most of the airpack problems are NOT a mechanical problem, but a lubrication problem. Get a good high intensity lube in there, NOT LSA or or EO, it may save you a lot of work.

$150 is not too bad for six injectors. The prices around here are in the range of $40-$50 per injector, so $150 for six seems pretty reasonable, especially adjusting the POP test and giveing you new gaskets. Maybe you need to give a link to your source, I'd gladly spend $150 to make sure my...

I always use a fuel additive, both as a cetane booster and to insure adequate lubrication to the injection pump. The IP pump is pretty solid, designed to work on straight gasoline, but the additional lubrication from the fuel additives certainly help redu\ce pump wear!

Actually, I think the original parts are nylon with flare and/or compression fitting. At least on my truck. Nylon works and lasts a lot longer than rubber.