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Why would you install 65s when a 31s will cost about the same, preform better and fit into the stock heavy duty battery trays? Don't get fooled by brand name hipe (short for hyperbole). If you buy 2 new matched batteries, good, heavy, commercial grade 31s, you won't need a 3rd battery.
I would check the battery cable down by the starter, there is a heat shield there that frayed though ever so slightly one one of my trucks a while back. It usually started, but the arcing fried a solenoid that was new. Someone told me there were sparks under the truck when I started it one...
If the bypass works, use it for now. Remove glow plug card, as it can still fry you plugs if the bypass was done in a certain way. Don't assume your plugs are still good even if new, they can fry quickly with bad card. Personally, I don't mind manual control. I tried to post a more complete...
The relay in your picture should work fine. I agree that you problem is just as likely to be glow plug card. If the glow plug card went, the glow plugs are probably fried as well.
The glow plug relay shown in picture should work fine, that one should have rubber insulators on mounts and not grounded to firewall. Looks like someone has installed manual glow or messed with it somehow, the two pink wires don't look original. It should be activated by grounding to one of...
Gen 1 exciter circiut gets power from heater blower fuse (top of the fuse box). Gen 2 circuit gets power from the 24v fuse ( a regular fuse near bottom of fuse box). Since you'll be hanging out under the dash, make there is a small black wire attached to cab above the parking brake. This is...
The Alternator charging circuits, insterment cluster wiring, 24 volt guage, black out switches all different. Most important, the alternator exiting circuits will not work.
For some people, 12 v may make sense. My first CUCVs were 12 v when I got them and they worked fine. I do like the way the 24v spins the starter. As for the civilian system, they had problems as well. There is a fairly expensive, and not that reliable controller in these systems, and they...
I would replace the burnt fuseable links with fuseable link wire of correct gauge. Not sure the breakers and fuses carry the same continuous load. Also, did you figure out the reason for original short circuit?
The first thin I would check is the 12v supply to junction block [on most cucvs this is the wire running from front of rear battery to driver' side on fire wall] , could be you had a short and blew the fuseable link.
I usually unbolt the front drive shaft and tie it out of the way, also disconnect batteries. I would get a gear reduction one. Lots of threads on the subject. Good luck, also male sure insulation is good on top of the battery/starter cable. The heat shield may have been bent with all the...
The TH400 is a common tranny, you should be able to get a price for rebuilt or to rebuild from local stores, shops. Would recommend replace torque converter as well, with one speced for diesel motor.
Another thing I noticed today while putting it back together, the terminal pointed out in first picture is #5 on cluster plug. The other side of Gen 1 light goes to #8 on cluster plug, thinner brown wire that is shown in schematic, that goes back to [I think] brown wire that plugs into alt 1.
Just had yet another truck w Gen 1 problems. This one had been faintly lighting GEN 1 LIGHT w heater blower on. After repairing Alt, noticed heater blower fuse melted but not blown. This may show that those of us with the heater/Alt 1 thing should pay more attention, even if alt still...
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