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Any switch to test with other than yours. You can simply unscrew the harness from the back and screw it into a test switch, doesn't need to be mounted to test.

Awesome. Now I'm on it! It probably would not have come on mine since it is the m998 version and that is the M1097 version. That one is also shorter than the original picture I posted which could still be a custom one or another application. THANKS for the picture. Anyone near...

I'd like to see a picture of one on an Avenger because that is what I own and I think I have looked at every Avenger picture on the internet and have never seen that exhaust on one. If I could find a picture on an Avenger, I would definitely have it one mine.

I don't doubt you but I made a jig and mounted it and my engine didn't move 1/4" and the bracket did nothing at all. I ended up removing it and didn't have any issues at all. Just my personal experience, I have only ever worked on my truck.

You don't need to support the engine. I made a bracket to support the engine and didn't need it at all. Pull the transmission and transfer as a unit. Overall it isn't a difficult job, just take your time. I did a TH400 to 4L80 swap in mine ... here is where the write up starts...

I did notice all that and that's why I'm wondering if anyone has seen one OEM. It's like the rear doors I posted about thinking they were custom however it turned out they were not. I like the look and the concept of this exhaust and now I need to find one at a reasonable price to cut up...

Thanks, I know what the original looks like and that's why I asked about the one in the picture. There are so many variations of parts on these trucks, I'm trying to figure out if this is a rare original or something else. That is not my truck but I like the idea of the shorter stack type exhaust.

Or did someone customize this?

You have to disengage the clutch and then line up the bolt holes with the bolts. Then you can remove the clutch as an assembly. The nut at the end only takes apart the piston/cylinder assembly that engages and disengages. You should really read the TSM for it. The nuts you have removed allow...

I just replaced my regulator after troubleshooting the alternator. I posted about it as well as posted the Neihoff Alternator Troubleshooting PDF file. I highly recommend you test it based on the PDF, it will help you id the issue...

So today was the day to finish the light switch modifications started here https://steelsoldiers.com/threads/my-new-1992-m998-avenger.184818/post-2460891 In the thread there was some discussion about leaving certain circuits "powered up". My thought process was to use the "Run" circuit from...

First, thanks for the input. I appreciate all comments, suggestions, different points of view, etc. I did check the charging but while working on something else (next post) I checked it again and took some pictures. It averages between 28.14 and 28.49 VDC on my DVOM. The analog meter still...

Yes and no.... gauges aren't always accurate but they mostly preform consistently. Also analog gauges show stuff digital gauges don't. A digital gauge samples and displays a mean average over time. A slight variation is often suppressed in a digital gauge. My digital VOM (Fluke) meter does...

Back on this post https://steelsoldiers.com/threads/my-new-1992-m998-avenger.184818/post-2481048 I mentioned when I was putting my truck up for the winter, the last mile of driving for the year, my generator went up on the charge voltage. Picture of the high reading in that post. Today I...

I just went back and read the post ... I had just looked at the pictures LOL

If you remove the striker does the door seal up tight all the way around? If so, you could flip the striker or try the rear striker in the front. It would literally give you 4 different striker positions to choose from.

Turn the striker around? Also the front and rears are different. Can't see the striker in your picture. EDIT: Found a picture of mine ...

Nice truck. Congrats on the win! In one of the pictures I noticed a little damage on the RH cowl. My truck had the same part damaged and it was pretty easy to replace. Here is a link to how I did it. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/my-new-1992-m998-avenger.184818/post-2345715 There...

#10 is the resister relocate board.

Not sure what a diode board is, the drawing doesn't show it. There is a resister board but that doesn't seem to be a part of the wiring but maybe to relocate the heater resister for clearance issues? Do you have a cannon connector on the back of the speedometer or a terminal strip?