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I'm a fan of OEM rebuilt locally but I'd also by a OEM take off before any rebuilt at a auto parts store. I don't trust them anymore from years of experience.

Do you have this manual yet?

Looks like Chrome and Edge have added more features to make everyone's life harder LOL. Try right clicking the link and select "Save link as". That should do it for you. This should work on a PC, not sure about phone.

Welcome. You need to start off with some TM's and wiring diagrams, etc. I've accumulated a lot of documentation and put a single file download in my signature that includes TM's and all kinds of stuff. One of the TM's says Wiring at the end and at the end of it are a bunch of wiring diagrams...

There is a used one on epay for a reasonable price. https://www.ebay.com/itm/115727243837 And another one waiting for bids .. https://www.ebay.com/itm/145082956025

That all depends on what you have in place now. What engine, transmission and transfer case do you have and what are you changing to? Serpentine or v-belts? I believe there are different engine harnesses depending on the engine and transmission combination. There are even some combinations...

You mean not available until you take it to a local printer. Order a regular one and go find a printer. Get 100 made and sell them. However instead of "Ludicrous Speed" consider changing it to "We Die like Men"

First what model HMMWV do you have? Some Tachs are run by a tach drive in the back of the engine while others are hooked up to the alternator.

Brakes... Who needs them? They just slow you down!

I think your last sentence is wrong. It should read "So now we have countless agencies in 50 states full of morons". Carry on.

I think I understand your question. You purchased only the light and not the light mounting bucket that makes up the back of the light. I thought you meant the bucket that mounts to the fenders but in this case the bucket is actually the rear of the light housing. In the brochure it shows...

Where you already have everything on your truck for the stock TCM and wiring it's hard to suggest going a different route. A full aftermarket TCM and wiring harness for your transmission would cost $750. I have personal experience with the Quick4 TCM and like it a lot. If you are handy at all...

I don't have first hand knowledge on the TCM but in general that type of intermittent issue is probably in the power circuit or some wiring. The TCM can go bad but if it intermittently works that is likely a wiring. Also any time the transmission loses control signals the default is 2nd gear...

Californistan is completely different than the US. Good luck.

The run flats also supply a bead lock. The stock rims don't have regular beads on them so if you remove the run flat you need to get aftermarket bead locks (large PVC spacer) so the beads will seal. A tube won't work for that. Here is the bead lock https://www.ebay.com/itm/134350481890

I would recommend taking it to someone that does AC work. It's not hard to work on but you should really know what you are doing as the refrigerant is particularly bad for you.

That's what the TM's are for. Here's where you can find them. If you plan on keeping this truck, you are going to need to know how to use them. Seems like a good time to start. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/tms-for-the-m998-series-hmmwv.78861/

Based on your description, I would be inclined to look for a wire issue, intermittent short, ground or bad connection in the crank sensor circuit. I wouldn't go after the gear since it would be unlikely to be damaged.

I guess I missed the part where he said it happens as soon as they are turned on. I got the impression it's based on current draw and not immediately after it is turned on.

Also, you should check all your light bulbs to make sure they are 28v. What is tripping the breaker is the total current used to power all lights, marker lights, tail lights, etc. When you turn on the high beams it puts you over the amount required to trip the breaker. Since the head lights...