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To the best of my knowledge they are all located in the same place, behind the gauge cluster on the dash. They are self resetting circuit breakers. Mounted to the firewall, black, have 2 wires that plug into them.

I'm not an expert by any means but when I did my 4L80 conversion I spoke with a TCM manufacture in depth about the operation of the transmission and how the TCM works. My understanding based on that conversation (over a year ago), the transmissions defaults to 2nd gear with loss of control...

I'd check page 52 and 107 of the pdf that Mogman posted and go from there.

Why would you try that without first troubleshooting the problem? If it is a power issue that definitely won't help.

Under the dash next to and attached to the brake pedal. In my signature there is a download for all kinds of manuals and pdf files. It includes electrical wiring diagrams etc.

Just a FYI, I just happened upon them and noticed they were different than the one's I have. Neither set, these or mine, are Man doors and are intended as cargo doors. I've seen sets like mine in the $5-600 range recently.

2nd gear is a default limp mode gear. You probably have a power issue to the tcm or a controller problem. Might be a circuit breaker issue or transmission power relay. Mogman will come along shortly and post a troubleshooting guide for you.

No, those are not the same doors. Completely different construction, those are what I have on my truck.

The welded square on the inside seems way too excessive for the door considering the way most of the ones I've seen are made. The rest of the door structure isn't particularly stronger that would require that amount of reinforcement. That made me question if they weren't home made. BUT if you...

Has anyone seen rear half doors like this? They look relatively well made but not "factory", am I wrong? Here's the link but i attached the pictures..... https://www.ebay.com/itm/144911444082

Well you do have the advantage of being able to plow over trees if you're too wide. :D

Not that I know what caused what you describe BUT if the oil return had any oil in the line or cavity and the engine started and that line vented the crankcase, crankcase pressure could push oil out of it much like what you describe.

Read up about how to drive it off road, it's not like 4 wheeling a jeep. The suspension doesn't articulate like a jeep or other 4WD trucks. And don't forget it's 7 feet wide and doesn't fit all the places a Jeep fits.

All ignition switches are not created equal. Cheap crap is just that. Here's a picture of what happens when cheap switches are used. The wiper is not made of copper. This is the key ignition switch that was installed in my HMMWV before I purchased it.

Different start boxes. The Smart Start doesn't pulse like the older EESS.

You can buy it new from AMG for 5100. I saw a used one for sale recently on a FB group for $800. Others for $2500. Basically it's all over the place. I've seen some unreasonably priced over $8K.

A co-worker, of a couple years, while filling out her time card once asked me "How many quarters are in an hour?" and I replied "4". She then said "No, there are 4 quarters in a dollar, how many in an hour?" True story .... jus sayin.

Proof of concept, if you can't steal your own truck, chances are some else can't either :D

After reading all that I have regarding this thread and IP's, here are the things I take away. 1, Stanadyne makes a LOT of IP's and they are used in many diesels. The majority of them use ETR for a reason. 2, In the PDF they show a manual override for the ETR 3, If I were ever so inclined to...

I don't think I would use that as the source 24v as it wouldn't have power if the ignition is off. I would think you would want power all the time to that switch, as Mogman said, direct from the battery. However that adds the need for a circuit breaker or fuse and if that trips, no power to...