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When the alt is not working does the heater blower work? There is a contactor in the PCB that excites the alt and powers the heater blower motor. Also check the voltage at the IGN terminal on the reg, it should be the same as battery voltage.

I think your compressor is fine, go ahead and try feeding it 24V to one wire with the other grounded and see if the compressor comes on. 19 ohms sounds about right, IIRC the 12V clutches pulled about 3A, so the 1.3A calculated at 28V sounds about right. I would look real hard at that breaker...

Sorry after re-reading your post I would think you do have a fried component, it looks like the breaker was too large or defective and did not protect the system :(

I do not mean to sound condescending but you should have changed ALL fluids and filters before ever trying to start your truck. Driving without doing that could cost you BIG bucks Use DEX III in the steering and transfer case, DEXIII or VI in the trans. EDIT, that is the very first thing I do...

If the AC was on then you likely shorted out the compressor clutch wire at least momentarily to ground, hopefully there is a fuse in the compressor circuit otherwise you likely fried one of the components that feeds the clutch, Yes a schematic would be very helpful, sorry can't help there. One...

Try shorting S and T in the diag port and see if it cranks, ign off.

As far as the transfer case there are no detents in the HMMWV transfer case shifter, it relies 100% on the detents in the transfer case to keep it in "gear", so precision adjustment of the shifter is not necessary. So unless something is moving so much that it is knocking the transfer case out...

If it seems to shift normally and you do not have any codes I would be doubtful it is a TPS issue, even if the TPS was causing the TC to lock and unlock it should not shudder, the shudder is the TC clutch slipping, it is actually possible the wrong fluid could cause this.

Take pictures of the sediment in the pan before you clean it.

I do not see a 24V-12V converter only a fuse panel, what alternator do you have and how many amps at 12V do you expect to pull?

I put the DuraVee in the shop for its annual service which includes draining all the hubs and differentials and inspecting the magnetic drain plugs. Nothing was found but the normal "mud" but no detectable particulate matter large enough to be detected with ones finger tips. So for all the...

In the 40 years I worked for a gas pipeline transmission company I volunteered for every storm that hit the Gulf, from Alabama to TX The company would send in mostly volunteers to put the company facilities back together and operate the pipeline while the local employees were allowed to stay...

We call that a PCB or EESS. OK did you try it with only the inside connector removed? If everything is OK with only the inside connector removed then the problem is in your wiring/ign switch inside the truck. If it tries to crank with only the inside connector removed but does not try to crank...

What is a starter module?

The first thing you need to do is get a suitable load to test with, a 24V head light would be perfect, under normal conditions if a head light was put in line with the battery and its terminal it would not light (it may "flicker" but should not stay lit), if the starter is trying to crank it...

Welcome to the SS forums!!! If you mean by "key" you have a keyed ign. switch that is your problem.

Well the 91 M1038 did not have the bracket you are referring to, that bracket came on the ECV serial number 196901 and above. I am sorry I thought you wanted the bolts to mount the bracket :eek: The compressor that fits that bracket has no threaded holes at all is uses 3, #4 (3/8-16 X 4.25) and...