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I am not sure what you mean I was talking about the neg lead of the meter when he is looking at the dimmer switch.

I never had an issue, it does reduce the rear departure angle a little bit but does not reduce the overall ground clearance of the vehicle. It is very well protected so if you did scrape it off road it would not likely be a problem.

Are you doing this with the engine not running, if so try it with the engine running and the alt charging. You may also have a grounding issue with the rear lights, pull the lens and see if the running light filament tries to glow/light when the turn signal is flashing

It should be clear, the pos terminal is larger than the neg terminal so the connectors should give you a clue but as far as practical application it does not matter

One of the yellow wires is for 12V transmission (TCM) feed the other goes to the 14V tap on the voltage regulator to balance the voltage on the two batteries 1 is neg, 4 is 24V positive. 3 is the cable that goes between the two batteries. What batteries are you going to use? There also should be...

Replacing all the frame mounts is a CONSIDERABLE amount of work with blood letting and money but that is certainly an option, I did a 2" lift for under $100, I used this guys pucks, https://www.mikellisbodylifts.com/ You will need to drop the fuel tank the same amount as your lift, I used a...

This is what that mount looks like in place.

Welcome to the SS forums. There is a winch mount made especially for the rear and many winches can be mounted in it. You can do an internet search for 5340-01-485-5962, here is the cheapest one I found with a quick search, the fairlead is right below the bumper...

To farther explain, the reason I would use a three terminal flasher where one lead was ground is because they do not depend on the load at all to operate, they get power on X and the circuit is powered through the ground (usually pin E) independently of the load. I will post an example Here is...

I was always thinking I would try one of the three terminal flashers where one was ground, but that one should work, curious if you leave the flasher unplugged do the lamps lite when you switch the turn signal on right or left? Also you hooked X to 325B (terminal B) and the load to 325A...

You ground the negative lead to the engine or other good ground

I just said in the above post that 17 was high and 18 was low

I would leave the wires attached and use the meter lead to pierce the wire insulation, 16 is feed (should be 24V no matter what the switch position is in (with the light switch in service drive ) 17 is high beam and 18 is low beam.

You have nothing there, the meter is only reading mV so the 130 = .13V What I would do at this point is make sure you have good voltage going in and out of the dimmer switch.

Check the LED indicator bulb, it should be "backwards" meaning the positive goes to the shell and neg goes to the contact point, easy enough to test with a couple test leads.

At least now you have it figured out and have the resources to fix it(y) What kind of symptoms did you have? I would think this would cause a high speed vibration

I am sorry, I miss understood, I guess you meant to say the drive flange was OK, to me axle=half shaft

Good deal! Just so it will be here this is what a 10K/12K A1/A2 half shaft should look like, I believe you have a half shaft from a late ECV of REV truck.

The half shaft does not look right, it should have the same pilot dia as the drive hub.

To bad he just uses PM instead of helping the rest of us with a lesson which is one of the main purposes of this forum.