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Assuming your truck serial number is 196901 and up One is a 3/8-16X2.5" bolt, goes through one of the idler pulleys One is M10-1.5 X 45 the third is a stud in the water pump, looks like part NSN 5307011787445 man. # 14071080

What you are experiencing is called torque converter shudder. It sounds like when warmed up it does not have enough pressure to keep the TC locked up and or the TC is worn out. Have you changed the fluid and filter in the trans? if not that would be the next step, with a close inspection of the...

No adjustment, you have something installed incorrectly, if not the top cover then something else in the governor linkage. Have you watched any youtube vids on the top cover?

I modified one of the rear mounts to fit on the front, but that was part of a bigger bumper/brush-guard project and have a 12K Mile-Marker hydraulic winch installed There seems to be several different options for the front but there are others that know allot more than me on that subject.

Well then you can simply ohm them out, not sure what they should read but if they are blown you will get an open (infinity) to all the terminals.

What kind of headlights are they? if they are incandescent you can ohm them out, if blown then all terminals will read to infinity and beyond :LOL:

You pierce the insulation of the wire with the voltmeter probe

Not likely, both high and low beams going out on both headlights would be extremely rare unless the voltage was way out of whack. Did you test the voltage with the lights attached?

Do you by chance have a 60A alt? if so check your battery voltage when running

If shorting S and T gets the truck cranking then as 86humv said start tracing the 74A circuit until you find the problem, if shorting S and T does not work then you have a problem with the starter and or power to the starter.

You may want to trade/sell them, you cannot get those at AutoZone and I bet they are not cheap!!

Try S and T that plug has independent wires to the positive post on the starter (T) and to the solenoid (S) If that does not work check T to ground with a volt meter, if you do not have 24V there then the starter is likely not getting any power.

If you short S and T on the STE plug you will activate the starter IF it is working and has power. That does not mean it is going to start, you still need power to the IP. If everyone that owns a HMMWV had downloaded and READ the free TMs available on this site it would have saved many folks...

When you tested the turn signal indicator lamp did you use reverse polarity? the pos goes to the lamp body and the neg goes to the contact point.

I did find this in Niehoff docs about the N3135 "Allows single-voltage operation (28 V only). 14 V is not available as a single voltage appli- cation with this regulator. — Provides optional 28 V/14 V output only from the regulator when phase cable from alterna- tor is connected to regulator."

I think it is possible the N3135 would work in that application only without the 14V, it seems if someone had just stuck that regulator on the alt. there would not have been a cap provided to seal the unused connector, it is even chained to the connector, normally these just have plastic caps...

Looking at your picture the regulator has one of its plugs capped, I assume that alternator does not have that cable, that would be a good reference to know if somebody is fighting a 200A alt. problem! I wonder if the 3135 regulator would actually work on that alt but being only single voltage...

That crosses over to NSN 2920-01-420-9968 per the Niehoff's web site. I did also look at some of the other military only parts suppliers and it is listed as non-submersible. The correct regulator is a N3106 and it does not have a 14V tap :( Searching for the NSN and all the regular suspects are...

Interesting, I have never seen a "non dual voltage gen" with an external regulator on a HMMWV, there is a 100A that uses the same regulator and is dual voltage. The numbers you list do not come up in any search except for this thread.

OK but you need to confirm that 24V is getting to the light sockets on the correct terminals, you also need to confirm the ground lead to the light sockets as well, there has been allot of issues with the cheap LED headlights, some have to go through several sets to get some that work.