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Also if you can post a picture of the label on the PCB, being a 1986 it is possible you have an obsolete (problem) PCB to begin with, does it have one or two harness connectors going to it from the engine side? The original setup had a harness just for the glowplugs.

Does the wait light work normally? it should stay on for about 8 seconds when the engine is cold.

BTW Welcome to the SS forums!!! It is in the PCB, you can confirm that circuit breaker CB-2, wire tags #27 behind the inst. panel is not getting power before going into the PCB. Careful inspection of the connectors on the PCB is also a good idea. Can you hear the relay close when the switch is...

I also see the A/C terminal does not have a wire on it, that should be tag # 2A IIRC that tells the PCB that the engine is running but should not be keeping the alt from charging as it must be excited and charging before there will be AC voltage on that terminal

I have swapped a couple tail gates and never had an issue with getting to the nuts on the back side, challenge yes but not impossible. Of course removing the body mounts is no big deal ether, I personally would go that route before trying to drive the pins out.

Also the wire tag for the IGN terminal on the reg should be 5A, you are correct that it needs 24V to excite the alt.

First check that the relay is latching up when the run switch is on, one way to confirm this is it also powers the heater blower so if the heater blower works when in run position then the relay is likely good, this relay has a history of failure. Remember when troubleshooting (or any other...

I suppose it is possible they could ohm out OK when cold but open when power hits them. Did you replace all of these at one time?

If it was the cat it should also smoke excessively at highway speeds and have low power

PM sent

What are folks using to replace the single 24V battery in the MEP-831A?

Can you turn the input shaft? if so does it have some resistance? If you take the top off can you see the fly weights turning in the governor housing? That IP needs to go to a diesel injection shop, replacing that piece will not likely get the IP going. EDIT, It does look like something seized...

I am not sure why anyone would pay 300 for a flasher unit, it does the exact same job as the little tin box that went click, click, click under the dash of your old Maverick. There are literally tons of LED rated 24V flasher units around.

I would add there is no ground dependent on the body (chassis) the only place I know where the ground is attached to the body is behind the inst. panel and that is only to pass the ground via a bolt to the other side of the body panel to a harness on the engine side. The supplemental grounding...

That 40PSI is for max GVWR which I doubt you are running at, in fact you are probably carrying more weight on the front axle anyway

If you are getting a 74 code then you still have an issue with the TISS If all the voltage and ohms check out all the way to the TCM (pins D4/D3) then the TCM is possibly defective as it is a relatively simple circuit. If the voltages do not check out then it is possible the new TISS is...

Yes that is how it works

Instead of a post for every little issue it would be better to start a "project" thread and add to it as you go along. Good luck with your R1!

He does not have enough feedback etc. to start a PM, but I think you can.

Naw, just helping her stay in ;) When in a vehicle it is all about protecting that vehicle.