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The fact is unless your M1123 had ABS it had DOT 5 in it and was marked so, since you cannot mix the two, in fact a complete rebuild of the system is recommended when switching between the glycol based and silicone based fluids and vice versa, he screwed up big time and now your complete brake...

I don't see any corrosion, just mud Besides no brake system can go without maintenance

Reliability IS the selling point of DOT 5, DOT 3 absorbs water and becomes corrosive

One error I see is DOT 4 does not have a higher boiling point than DOT 5

I will be willing to bet any vehicle that sat for 10-20 years with DOT 3 in it needs a complete brake overhaul, that is why the military uses DOT 5 Oh yes, what moron labeled a glycol based brake fluid DOT 5.1?????

Sounds like BS to me. It is going to be expensive to completely flush that system, all the stuff that comes out must be disposed of.

But if you are sure the solenoid is bad (measures open with an ohm meter) than here are a couple places I found that are reasonable. https://www.accuratediesel.com/store/p/298-Injection-pump-solenoid-Stanadyne-26387-24-Volt.html...

That is what putting the 90PSI is for so you can release the clutch and line up the cap screws behind the 4 holes.

OK I think see, you do not have the clearance to remove the fan so you are trying to pull the front off of the clutch? Sorry can't help you there.

I think you are going to have to remove the fan before the clutch. Not sure what 1/2" you are talking about please post us some pictures. The 90PSI releases the clutch not engage it. If you are talking about the nut in the center of the clutch that will not get it apart.

If you hear it click the solenoid is not bad, it is more likely you have an IP problem. turn the run switch to run plug and unplug the most forward wire on the IP and see if it clicks. If it does click then sometimes you can pop the top off of the IP and see in the linkage is stuck. This takes a...

It is not a good idea to ever use starting fluid on a high compression diesel.

Welcome to the forum!!

Yep, about 10 seconds!:LOL::ROFLMAO:

So I tried the RT-246 in the MT-1029 base and still have the same issue in remote so now I am not sure if the radio has a problem or the lack of connected ancillary equipment is the problem.

Seems like ALLOT of work to avoid removing 2 screws...

I saw a vid once that showed a guy setting up but not using a "wheel winch" it was pretty obvious it was not going to work. He did not have enough bend in the rebar to insure the rope would feed between the wheel and bar, the problem is if the bar had enough bend to work it would not fit through...

Man that is some awesome work on that VIC-1 system, VERY-VERY nice!! I don't have the patience or skill to do that level of work.

I picked up this breakout box off of Fleabay so I could test my radios with about 20lb shed in the form of the mounting base and when they are not in the vehicle. Everything works fine except on the RT246, if I put the radio in auto channel select or press the tune button is rolls down to min...

Just put one on each end. Edit, 12K hydro on front 12K electric on rear.