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The low side is always going to read high when the compressor is not running, you will need to replace the freon you blew out, I have never seen an ac get too much freon unless someone puts it there.
You should be able to go through the schematics and figure out where the circuit is disrupted...
I also forgot, I am not familiar with your boom cylinders but many load carrying cylinders have "checks" built into them to prevent the load from falling if a hose breaks, they would also need to be defeated.
For example my Bobcat has those checks in the boom cylinders and there is a cap crew...
Just about any cylinder can be re-sealed without removing the barrel if you have clearance to work with it.
You do have to break the hose fittings loose so air can get in (and fluid out) and allow you to pull the ram out otherwise it will be hydro-locked.
Yes, possibly, there is a charge pump in the IP that will try to pull fuel.
If you did not pull the plate and grease the pump rod there is a 99% chance you broke the pump rod, it slides down inside the area the pump bolts up to when you pull the pump, if you did not address that the rod is again...
If you did not pull the cover behind the fuel pump, grease the pump rod and then put it back together than you likely broke the pump rod when you reinstalled the pump, common newbie mistake
When you replaced the fuel pump did you remove the plate behind the pump, remove and grease the push rod so it would stay up in the block before installing the new pump?
Some issues can be, plugged fuel screen in the tank, the for-mentioned check valves, bad fuel pump, plugged fuel filter, leaking (sucking air) fuel lines (would be before the fuel pump)
If you do not have some flow from the fuel filter drain while cranking or running it is no bueno
Jumping threads is not going to help, the cold advance is not the problem, if it would start then immediately die maybe but not going to be your problem in AZ in the summertime.
But to answer the question it should have 24V when stone cold in the run position.
It likely has nothing to do with actual heat, the engine cannot get overheated in 10 minuits as long as it is full of water, it takes a long time to actually warm up.
Well then there is only two things that it could be, lack of power to the IP run solenoid or you are loosing fuel.
Again, have you replaced the fuel filter, all the rubber fuel lines and removed the check valves in front of the fuel tank?
I suppose it is possible you have the cold advance wire and the run wire reversed on the IP so when it does warm up it shuts off power the the cold advance (which if reversed actually shuts off power to the run solenoid)
The run wire, 54A should be connected to the most forward connector on the IP
You could have a missing drive shaft, a broken or "loose" half shaft, rather unlikely but possibly a bad transfer case, any number of possibilities.
But no they do not walk on water, my experience is they do well on sand, better than the average Unimog but a Unimog smokes the HMMWV bigtime in mud.
This is where it would have been real handy to actually read the operator TM, there is no NL position.
Also as stated above BTM (brake throttle modulation) may be helpful, but yes if you are in HL or L you should be pulling on both axles.
Recovery can be very expensive, going with folks that are...
Just the basics, replaced the filter? cleaned the fuel tank/pickup screen? removed the check valves?
Cranking for 20 sec is too long as you will fry the starter.
If you open the filter drain valve and crank the engine does fuel come out?
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