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Are they commercially relined shoes or originals..?? I would suspect lining thickness and concentricity.

The truck would have had 24087, semi gloss...I had 25 of them in the 502nd Engineer, Float Bridge Company... 555 group in Germany in the 60s.. It is probably a IHC . I am taking apart one now...if you need any trinkits... Don't forget to silicone seal the zippers on the knuckle boots...and on...

I am not smart enough to figure out what motor you are talking about...Assuming a LDS 465-1A. But when you said it looks like a MF setup...I got quizzical. Can you put a pressure gauge in the nozzle hole and see if the pump actually builds pressure under a no/low flow situation... Do not put...

Make sure you have the safety pins in your side racks or they will slide right out and crush your little piggies..at any rate it is advisable to remove the racks before lowering the dropsides...I would always advise that soldier #2 be given that job...

That wire does not belong there stock.. Your hot wire from the accessory switch, read ignition switch, should screw in with a connector on the bottom side of the housing..thru a capacitor and also a voltage reducing resistor.. What is the other end of the mystery wire attached to? I sure...

Could have had an older set with the PP109 and a RT 66 67 68 too.. early on....maybe...with the AB15 antenna and a 116,7,8 mast sections...

Three of us... Me, myself, and I have a good time together... Last time I was rolling on the floor was taking the PTO off the M139 with the shaft to the winch still attached...oops...

I guess you had a year to buy the manuals and study them before trying to operate your truck...That is the recommendation I make to you... The buzzer is your low air pressure alarm... I typically try to be clothed when working on my trucks.. so I will not "bare" with you... Bearing that in...

TNJ Murray would have em...

As there are different models...as in MKT75, 75A, 82, 85, 85S, etc The manuals..TM10-7360-206-series will give you the part #s.. I have a few of the canvas pieces and screens for the units if you need em.. PM

RE: Both or either Sleeping I was, I guess... hardtop kinda means hardtop for sure.. I imagine it would be a chore and the $700 deuce hard top would be lost... Putting an original top on the M37 will enhance the truck's value more than with a hokey top. There would be the side fastener issue...

I may have the new control unit...pm me with the specifics and I will comepare to the one I have for $35...

RE: how tight rear hub There are four adjustments for the brakes on each wheel... and of course...the definition of warm and hot is ever so relative...

So, do you need bows for the soft top for the cab and the rest of that setup, or do you need bows for the cargo canvas... and are you looking at conventional or dropside bodies...and the questions of course go on...

New ones for the MF are about $5C a pair.

How does your truck move with the rear drive shaft disconnected?

In the old age days, we used non sticky fabric electrical tape...which would also hold water...

be sure the oil level ...hot... is below the fill plug opening, and that it is GL1.. and double check that vent... take it out and be sure it is not clogged in the case where the vent screws in... Secondly, stranger things have happened, but your air compressor does pass oil into the air...

OH yeah, The kit for the Reo should be 2910-793-9050 and the gasket kit 7539069... fyi

885-FFG ...as DD indicates... They are Holley... However they are not interchangeable due to jet size and other internals... For the Reo you need 7368643...Ord #... Most of the gaskets are interchangeable... I sold my last brandy new one a coupla years ago at a local MV flea market...still in...