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Spend the $ and get the manuals... the -20 and -34 have page after page of schematics and troubleshooting advice. First step is to put your voltmeter on the output of each alt and see if there is about 15 volts there running...

They are relays attached to the back of the dash...

RE: Duece Top Hard or soft?

Hey, have you been looking in my book??? Isn't the Ord 9 a wonderful unit. By the way , even the 800 series 34P1 shows the two different cylinders... The MC and the Air Pak remain the same too...

the early electric horn on the deuces is my cup of tea... Sounds more like a Road Runner...

hitting the head of the screw is common practice to pop em off.

Hiab cranes are available at heavy equipment dealers... I had one aftermarket mounted on a deuce about 20 years ago...

recent or been that way a long time...?? Rev it up and pop the clutch, always breaks something.. Or downshifting at too high a speed etc etc...

Most folks who do this... mount the new relay on the engine side of the firewall in the famous purple wire... and jump it together where the current relay is...A can just like the new glow plug relay works just fine.. So says Ted H and his have worked for years...

As it is explained in detail in your manuals with all the necessary schematics, those are the Gen2 Relay and the Voltmeter Relay... You need to get the 289 series of manuals because so many of the systems are interrelated... The STEICE connector is what I believe you are referring to as "the...

Bigger hammer...and correct puller..

Lesson one... All Cucv are Diesel... there were some early versions in Canada with 350 4 barrell, but not cucv for real... 1984-87... Almost all systems fail at some point in time as they are GM. there are numerous threads here on the Fuel system, the glowplug system, the starter system, the...

The famous failure to start... the dreaded purple wire... you can cut the wire and insert a pushbutton like an old ford...and do the same thing... turn key to start and push the button... or you can replace the 2 bit relay with a heavy duty one like the glow plug relay and mount it in the...

The little air valve is probably stuck... free it up...sometimes they are on the square housing and sometimes on the cover of the double reduction unit...If you have pressure in there you are asking for leaks in all the wrong places...for sure. Be sure to get a copy of the lube order and see...

RE: All that exercise just made the rear main mad and it let some of the oil out to play...I remember the same thing happening to a 4000 miles truck I got at Tobyhanna...ran like a scream until I went uphill and the clutch slipped like a bugger...Mass to Plattsburgh VT non stop...was a gallon...

Assuming this is a M135?M211 Canadian...I would suggest that you ask some of the Mil guys in Canada if the rebuilds had the new clutch packs which could stand ATF. Orginally, the trannys used OE30..But the cold weather gurus there above the arctic circle may have special ideas...

Those Austin Western guy really made it a lot of work..with their special fittings.. Thankfully the later trucks were more standard.. whatever that means..I guess..easier to get hose ends...etc. Good job getting yourself out of the jam.

And of course, the first thing to check, is the firewall mounted air governor.. if it is stuck in the off position.. it will not call for air.. Are your underdash air supply valve(s) opened by a prankster...

Is your emergency valve on the right rear open? all air will just dump out there if it is... If the check valve for the the right front valve is stuck open it can get out there... Is the line to the air horn broken off? That is charged all the time, too...

M931 is covered in the parts book TM 9-2320-272-20P and 34P.. and those should be on the dataplates on the Dash of said truck.