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Welcome to the forum!! Junk that cheap switch and get a OEM switch, also check your panel light circuit for a short. Many have had bad experiences with the cheap Chicom switches, there are very few cheap knockoff components that actually work correctly, it would be a damn shame to burn down your...

AMG https://genuinehumveeparts.com/products/tires--wheels Call them to make sure they are available. Make sure you get the real deal, most out there are crap

Steering wheel lock, someone must have cut the end off, it should not pull out

I bought one from the Air Force in San Antonio, it was green and had an Army number inside the kick panels. It did however have all the fluids drained in true AF fashion. It was being used by a group of Apache and Chinook pilots, reservists serving under an active CO using active helicopters...

I forgot that some had 4 speeds, it would be interesting to find out if they started out as A1s or A2s, possibly the 3 speed became no longer available and they upgraded the A1s to 4 speed? Do the 4 speed R1s have V belts? What gear ratio diffs do the 4 speed R1s have?? None of the ones I have...

It takes all three belts to drive that 200A alternator and then the fan kicks on....... ;)

How did you seal the plate to block? If you are going as far as loosening the plate may as well pull it and grease the rod

Evidently the R1 designation is given to A1 vehicles that have been rebuilt, Unlike the A2 vehicles which get rebuilt with A2 parts thus keeping the A2 designation the A1 received the 6.5L and the NP242 transfer case (because the 6.2L and NP218 were no longer in production) this would give...

If it is an old Detroit they are very fuel efficient, they are nasty, slobbering, oil leaking beasts but easy on the diesel.

Not to mention it would probably be the least fuel efficient generator ever, but it is fun the think about. HMMWV but no MEP or other means to generate emergency power? seems the acquisition order is a little out of whack.. o_O

You missed a zero, 400X28=11200W

That is not likely going to save you, there are two big 200A cables connected to the regulator through the alternator, the answer is to mark everything so you stop making the same mistake over and over.

Quit shorting the terminals under your seat! The system is fine as is, you cannot engineer out mistakes. You should also get rid of the 400A alt

I am sorry but again I am not responding to your message I am responding to Artillerydan

Hello, are you there?

I would not use that switch diode or no diode, just looking at it the body is too small to be a heavy duty switch IMHO

Actually the military runs their diodes in series, does basically the same job as running them in parallel as I do, all you need to do is put a male and female Packard connector on a diode and put it in line with the start lead. These would also have the cathode pointing to the starter, if you...

I believe what causes the average key switch to fail is not only the current but the reverse EMF caused by the large solenoid. when the start position is released the collapsing magnetic field across the solenoid creates a very large reverse EMF this creates an arc across the contacts, if the...

That does not sound correct at all, the key should be removable in the off position only, that is a cute switch but I doubt it is up to the task. Common wisdom is any keyed switch is a no no, but I believe there are some industrial switches up to the task but that does not look like one.

That loose pitman arm can certainly cause/make worse any shimmy issues, not as loose is not good enough, that connection between the pitman arm and the steering shaft must be absolutely tight, zip/zero/nada play