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Well check the hubs for slack while you have the front end jacked up. At least do that for everyone else's safety. Loosing a steer axle wheel is no joke. Don't slough it off as not being a possibility.
Ok, i thought that was a pinchweld where the floor pan and rocker panel met, and they just used that to hold the door weatherstrip in place under the entryway guard strip.
You could have a failing hub bearing with a wheel that is wanting to come off too. As you drive it gets hot and starts to seize up. Or loose/ broken wheel studs and nuts. Either way, if the steering wheel is moving side to side at low speeds I would be more inclined to say it is a mechanical...
If I can get them for around those prices I may fix them. Looking like I may not right now though. I have rust holes in the seam where the rockers and floor pan pinch weld together in the door jamb as well. So I would need full rockers and floor pans? I've never had to do any rust repair like...
Get the thread size on your new filter base, then the thread size on your lines, then get fittings to adapt both together. No need for the old fittings, but may take some trial and error and a few wrong fittings purchased. That's how people get fitting collections. Lol
I was using the 5150 series shocks. I'm sure the yellow body shocks are ok. But the lift capable shocks have threaded on eyes that don't stay together, and the cylinder seals didn't last at all.
Mine came with a yanmar 3.8 diesel on it and it was doing that too. Turns out it had some trash in the fuel tank selector switch that would gather up and clog it every so often. Check and see if you still have fuel supply when it happens again.
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