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In the first pic of this thread... Is that brake light switch on the fluid side, or the air side? I need to replace mine and I'm not sure which switch I need. Don't want to take it off and find out I got the wrong switch and have to bleed the brakes and do it all over again later.
Sounds like you have a lip seal going bad. Could be something else, but it's more than likely time for an overhaul. Remember though, with transmissions the longer you drive it once a problem starts, the more it will cost to fix it.
I do have a way to get them home that I worked out prior to bidding, I'm just trying to find a more economical way. Timntrucks, I would appreciate that feller's info if you could pm it to me. Thanks guys.
Mine is set up the same but works fine. Sounds like you both have bum speedometers. I would imagine this could happen if someone opened one up and tried to fiddle with the guts/ rebuild it incorrectly, or if it is a Chinese made one.
You just think you fixed it. The problem will reoccur. For the problem to have been corrosion it would have had to be a VERY badly corroded connector. I'm betting that you have a wire that has broken inside the insulation and is making contact for the time being. Sometimes the problem goes away...
Won 4 M1009 blazers out of Hattiesburg the other day and just wondering if anyone can help with transport here( paid of course), or just help me get them off the lot. It is 287 miles from Camp Shelby to my doorstep and I really don't want to pay $3000 to move all four from there to here.
Yeah I remember you telling me that, just trying to find out why some people keep saying that the oil washes bearings out. I've never seen a bearing in an oil bath go bad except from water contamination.
And why would it wash the bearing out? It doesn't wash out the internal bearings. Logic would dictate that as long as there is oil in there, even if it is displacing grease, it should run just fine. This is taking into account the leaks and brake problems associated with it. I've only seen...
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