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750 is mo bettah

RE: Re: WVO for Dummies - need clarification hey,,, Bjorn.. your horn parts are shipped... thanx.

RE: Re: WVO for Dummies - need clarification Easier to eat WVO at McDonalds before it is thrown out...and you save a lot of $. Then you don't have to put it in the tank...There is a big investment in time and prep if you are really serious about using the stuff...honest...

for the PS question... there is a piston on the right side of the axle.. and usually a cutout in the lf fender support etc...

RE: frame dimensions M1008 and suburban I really doubt that year for year the folks at GM made PU and SUB with WB only 2 inches diff.. My engineering mind would preclude that from happening in my company

Have a bunch of fun.. remember caveat emptor... Most 30 year old trucks have had 3 or 4 rebuilds and several speedometer/odometers...if you did not look at it personally or have a pro screen it for you... shame on you...

RE: truck no, yes, no for the three questions.

Holy moly, I can do that in my bedroom...just run to the junk yard and get some scrap aluminum deck plate at about a buck a pound and a 3/8 Chinese drill throwaway is 10 bux and a good drill bit for 2 bux... and if you have electricity the job is done.. You can cut the plate to size with a 3...

ya all can find that in the manuals...easier than I can remember...or just take your tape measure to the local shopping mall...in DC

I routinely get 4mpg with all of my gas 5 tonners... The bridge trucks.. M139 get a little less...

Mack made the Continental Gas Powered M54 series as did IHC, Diamond T. Some were converted to M54A2s with government kits... The M54A1 series was Mack made and Mack ENDT673 Turbo Diesel Powered... I would not pay more than $3500 for a barebones model...extra for winch, hardtop, heater, new...

Easier to take the compressor off and work on it on the bench... I have never had one which would not turn free... you did loosen the bolts so the outer half could rotate?.... Easiest way to remove belt is to cut it...if you want to make it easier, take out the radiator...

They are extremely busy with a big export order.

or Pop's GMC Parts in NH

You can use the pump from any of the heater kits or the transfer pump from a 5 ton to do the job also...any 24V inline pump will work...or 2 12V ones in series.

RE: covers Always retighen the ropes after about 20 miles on the road... you will be amazed how much they stretch.. also bright sun will make the canvas or vinyl grow... be sure your bows have no sharp edges or loose screws as they will eat a hole in your canvas faster than a grandson at...

The control boxes for the engine and personnel heaters in the Arctic Kits were mounted on the dash....of the M1009...most of which were scrapped by the stainless steel hungry folks who bought the hundreds of them at the big sales at Griffiss AFB in Rome NY about 12 years ago....I was there...

GL1... worked well for 60 years....and will continue to do so...foaming is caused by overfilling or blocked vents... fill to one finger knuckle below fill hole....These trucks were designed to run 40 mph in convoy...on non interstate highways... not 60 mph from Chicago to Dallas...

Remember you can advance the timing a little as the gasoline currently is a lot higher octane than the Mo-Gas they were designed to use in combat situations....get it to ping a little under load and then back off about 2 degrees...and if you are paranoid, you can use a little lead substitute...

I have a M35 Carb rebuild kit for sale....$35.. fits the OH331 Gold Comet with the Holley two barrel as standard...plus postage from 05822... (When you flood the Reo.. hold accellerator to floor continually while cranking...do not pump... and eventually the fouling will clear and it will start...