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Hoo-boy. ALL other things being equal, probably the 6.5 IF there's a 4-speed with it. This topic's been beaten to death and the only thing I can find - consistently - favoring the 6.5L optimizer NA motor is the extra power. I've read a number of reports about NEW 6.5L NA motors detonating...

Thought that MIGHT be the case. I've seen a 400A alternator before with the eyebolt. NFW do I think anyone but The Hulk could install that solo. So I'll just leave this plugged for now. I did manage to install my 200A by myself, no issue with the left spash shield removed and some blankets...

200 Amp Niehoff generator question With the N1225-1 generator mounted, there's a threaded (about 3/8x16) hole more or less on top center. It's not chamfered/countersunk. Inside appears to be a solitary wire crossing the hole. Anyone know what this is for? Okay to plug up with something...

wire cable ferrule. poking around I found this: https://smile.amazon.com/SwageRight-Stainless-Steel-Sleeves-Ferrules/dp/B074B52VNC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=stainless%2B3%2F16%2Bferrules&qid=1557444825&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1 But I found packs of 50 on the evil auction site once, from China, and used...

Might be brushes, or the regulator on the generator, OR bad connections. Oh, and a shot of belt dressing spray and/or check belt tension. Anyone else?

An ebay deal from about ten years back. Think it was about $220 delivered. I disassembed it, sand blasted and parkerized it, then gave it a coating of I don't recall which rattle can paint. Came with the lead jaw pads - and I bought a couple sets of other ones in rubber, aluminum and plastic...

Getting it back together isn't too hard. As far as sealing against air loss goes, there's not much of a seal on the end that goes to the driver toe heater tube. I have a tube of paintable caulk and I plan to run a bead along the FRONT edge where the cross-piece meets the frame and dog house...

As with most things mechanical, there's often a "special tool". About two years back I bought a box of "special tools" someone was selling here (and on the evil auction site) and this was one of them: Power steering pump pulley installer. It's in the manual. What it doesn't say is exactly...

Got into replacing broken down heater ducts. NOWHERE in the manual does it say the idiots at the American General factory used some kind of glue to hold the bottom of the diverter and the dashboard and cross-piece in place. Took HOURS poking and pounding with old wood chisels and paint...

MAN, what a chore. Took me a while to figure out the BOTTOM was glued in place. I have a collection of pain scrapers from decades past, and a cheap set of wood chisels I use for such jobs (I have a good set for woodwork). Inch by inch I pounded a 1 inch chisel, then a 3 inch paint scraper...

Stuff happens. One of the more interesting things I’d read here was someone stopping a HMMWV fan with their hand. Sure, it’s free-floating, but there’s a heck of a lot of momentum built up in those blades and I can easily imagine a good hand surgeon being consulted to do reattachments of...

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I was a med student doing an anesthesia rotation back in 1989 when a patient came into the OR for debridement of a wound gotten from a high-pressure ink-feeding line from some Pennysaver-type printing press. Just a small set of wounds on the hand, but a LOT of dark stuff under his skin...

What kind of glue did you use to put it back? I’m puzzling out how to get the diverter and the dash/instrument panel free and figured there had to be some kind of adhesive, or the windshield frame was holding the parts down somehow. I’ve got time to figure it out; had to order a 1.5” ID hose...

I did mine last time over a few days’ time. I had the cooling stack off, replaced PS aux cooler hoses, PS pump (it made noises, winch wasn’t working really well), high-pressure line to gearbox, followed directions to the letter, ran the engine, let it cool off, and started over, and...

No release. Plug was just glued in place with silicone or something like it. Picked at it, brushed it with a stainless brush, pulled tabs on side to release, then reassembled and wrapped some silicone tape around it.

Wow. You found DIRT! :lol: Were the maps useful, at least?

For tap and die operations: Tap magic. For drilling - drill press or mill or hand drill - same or WD40. Milling: WD40 or soluble oil/water mix. FWIW.

I thought so too. I'll give it another go tonight. Tried pushing with a thumbnail but wasn't getting any release. Likely old rubber adhering to the plastic. I'll try getting some dielectric grease between the parts with a nail or something. Thanks.

Holy resurrected zombie post Batman! I did some plug-and-play hose replacement on my PS system this past week or so and wound up getting the electrical wire for the proportioning valve underneath the high-pressure hose from the hydroboost to steering box and would like to unplug it and reroute...