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I have some for sale in VT... I have a whole kit $275, and another batch of incomplete kits...if you were closer you could come and pick em up....at one of the East Coast Shows... However since 14 Feb there have been 72 inches of snit here and I will be a long time waiting for the melting to...
There is no plug on the M211 Pac.. unlike the M35 Pac.. You have to remove the air tube going to the back of the pac and indroduce the oht into the hole there...Spruce Mountain Surplus was selling the OHT in small bottles.. probably www.sprucemountainsurplus.com as I remember it.. ACE
I would check to see if the system is still pressurized when it will not roll, by opening a bleeder on one wheel... It may just be a coupla lazy shoe return springs... ACE
The oil for use in the air side of the booster is OHT... air cylinder oil and should be introduced in 1/2 OZ quantity every six months.. be sure to drain all air pressure before removing tube to put oil in....ACE
Did you put the sleeves in the exhaust ports on the head... they are separate from the gaskets? And secondly you assemble the manifolds loose to each other and then torque the parts to the head to spec.. so as not to bend or break the clamps and then you tighten the two halfs of the manifold...
for test purposes just use the nato plug on the grille...it is connected to the buss bars on the firewall... or you can use the negative term on front battery and positive cable from rear battery to get 24 V... ACE
It wqs the ulsd situation which has been addressed before...Jeff at Frontline has commented many times...Sulfur and lead are wonderful :evil: lubricants...and the Algores of the world have denied us the benefits because parents keep feeding their kids paint chips and diesel in their sippycups...ACE
RE: Duece serial number question
All that tells you is that it is vehicle # 15 of the series... back off and look for the series 0525-10015 or similar and that is your vin... Go to David Doyles deuce number article in a recent AM or SL or MV.. and get the estimated mfr date...at least one of...
Good Job..you can advance the timing until it pings a little..then back off a couple of degrees...It was specd to run 68 octane, so normal stuff now is super for it... lead additive replacer will help some too... We shaved the heads on one of ours and got about 20 more HP and more...
Next time you are in the tank, so to speak, pull the bottom drain plug and filter the fuel thru a good solids and water funnel and rinse the tank a coupla times with some more fuel... and put the plug back in and return the filtered fuel to the tank and you are good to go... the primary filter...
Just measure the thickness of the original with a 0-1 micrometer and buy some stock of the same thickness... I wouldn't bother trying to make it too pretty, cuz it would not emulate the real thing... take a look at some trucks as repaired by the Military while the trucks were in service...But...
Any napa truck store down there will have one... just take one nut off the trailer M101 don't know about the chebby axle under the M116... and go match it.... 80 percent of folks just use a small chisel and a hammer... VTCSM37 had some chrysler script ones...I sold my last one for $35....ACE
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