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Unless you have a replacement later engine.. you should have the REO OA331 engine in that Stude... Much later on Continental made some copies and they were called OAC331 for obvious reasons... The Continental engines were painted blue.. Identical accessories on both of em.. Your carb is...

Makes the $90 ones for the M37 look like a great deal... ACE

Check the governor after you determine that the system is working and have checked all the valves and the glad hands in the rear to be sure they are closed..the one under the glove box can be open, too...Air tank drain open?? RAM

Good boots should last 20 years..you shouldn't have big gobs of grease in there by the way...only enough to keep the housing from rusting and the little residue from lubing the pivots occasionally. Always be sure to seal the zippers on the split boots to keep them waterproof... rtv or similar.. ACE

The AirPak (TM) is a air hydraulic cylinder which acts as your power brake booster.. The old style actually lasted from 1950 in these trucks until just about now... The newer replacements for the old one were just made available a few years ago and do the same function. More compact air side...

Don't forget the OHT

I really loved the LD465-1 in my M275A2... quiet and easy starting... ACE

Of course you have to realize that the nuts on the left loosen right and the nuts on the right loosen left...and sometimes they get mixed up by motor pool maniacs doing brake jobs and putting wrong hubs back on.... But they are marked on the stud L or R so take heed... Budd Nuts Rock.. ACE

Never had a nut I could not budge, inner or outer, on M37 thru M123 with other than hand tools...mostly without gear multiplier, too. After I tunred 60 I got one of those beauties...as it prevents inner nut from spinning with outer on duallies. Long pipe, support and a 200 lb guy at a 6...

Looks like a CUCV to me... What's all the aluminum foil for?

RE: STARTER SUPPORT BRACKET - DON I joined the club too... no end support and the bolts had been reused... they stretch... use new bolts every time... just like head bolts... after they stretch they have a small diameter and are prone to loosening and shearing... Giant torque and poor...

RE: j-pipe mo fun in the cold snow and wind.. I did the one on my 800 series.....at zero degrees F... and the worst part was the spring loaded bolts on the upper support....but the experience was part of my education....after all I am only 64 years old...ACE

as the tie down shackles are used with the wrecker whiffle tree for lifting and towing, they were designed just for that purpose.. I typically run a good 3/8 safety chain from the tiedowns on the tower along the tow bar to around the frame behind the street side of the towee tie down...

linkage tends to hop out of gear sometime in the shifter...sounds like you were not in the detent and it was just grinding away.... regarding the light, does it come on in 4wd low,....? I would imagine all the vibration from the grinding just messed up the switch in the linkage... Do you...

without the license, they would have not made em... principle of hypercycle or not...was my only point....ACE

www.armyjeeps.net usually has a peacekeeper for sale.. also I have new windshields for sale for same...

Check the wheelbase and also that the recovery truck aka wrecker has a walking beam rear susp...

any common carrier would be happy.... tell em it is iron and steel.. to get a good rate... do not mention auto parts... rate will be per 100 lbs... so weigh it light.. but not too light as they will then weigh it at terminal and frown on you...

And of the serious side.. use the shop press to push it off...or a hydraulic jack against a coupla big wooden blocks and the concrete wall in your garage..or your little 10 ton porta power...

that bare bear must have been funny with no fur... It is easier to remove pintle and shaft from mount before loosening bolts on rear frame cross member...take off castle nut and washers.. tie truck to big tree and off you go....