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Virtually everything is different. Go back and read the thread. You're pretty much on your own. None of us have worked on them and most haven't seen one in person.
Call Stewart and Stevenson. They still exist......
Can always contact Red Dot with the part number. Never hurts to ask......
The new versions of the Gen II have the ProTecht module: http://firewall.reddotcorp.com/pdf/eadvantage-2011%2006.pdf
Does this alternator have the VR with the diagnostic LED's and if so what are they doing? You can also just completely disconnected the truck from the alternator and hook it to a couple batteries on the floor with jumper cables and hit the E terminal with a 24v lead to turn it on. If it acts...
No that is correct. It will only get the 24v from the PPD/LBCD which drops the voltage from the batteries across its Schottky diodes that have about a 0.4v forward bias.
At any rate that E terminal signal only needs to be present momentarily on the later units and that will turn the regulator...
HWY does not drop pressure. Partially because the system has to account for pressure rise due to temperature, and partially because they want the ability to manually inflate higher and not have the controller fight you.
Update to the Jeep in the above pic. It's here for a cam sensor problem - customer has spent thousands and taken it to multiple shops. Pico scope showed the cam sensor signal having erroneous drop outs in the middle of trigger tooth high pulses causing the PCM to miscount the rising edges from...
Very nice! I think we may be the only two A1R M1079's on the planet with the crew protection cab commanders hatch. Love mine - there's no better way to get onto the roof.
The 260 is *THE* FMTV alternator now. It superceded the 100 and the 200 for all models. So the military has kits to install it on every single FMTV serial number back to 3116 trucks.
So yes. You can install the 260 on any FMTV with the right assortment of parts.
It's easier for serpentine...
Sure you can torture any data set til it tells you what you want to hear.
But the point is that I didn't have to even look for that clip. It just happened to be posted yesterday and came across my feed with no searching.
They are crap. You don't actually believe they aren't do ya? Really...
2008 M1079 is my daily for the last four years. 28k miles.
Alternate is my 1984 M1009. 9k original miles.
Secondary alternate is a 2004 Nissan Quest that I inherited with 75k. It's worth nothing because no one wants them. It's paid for. It's low mileage. It's pre-CANBUS. It's horrible. I hate...
I don't see the point in wasting my time. If I'm going to have to fix it myself anyway why am I paying a premium for a pile of poorly designed plastic with a warranty not worth the ink?
Video from yesterday from a repair shop that comes across my feed:
Jeep gladiator engine warranty nightmare - 45k miles - engine failure (jumped out of time). Replacement engine from dealer failed with under 300 miles. Then they give them the total run-around on warrantying the replacement...
I'm guessing they copied the higher pressure map over to all the unused program slots so if there's some wiring malfunction and it loads a different profile it's less likely to be "too low" as that would be more dangerous than too high if you're heavily loaded. But I have not actually checked...
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