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Nothing that I can find. Looking in the software all the settings match 1088/1089. I just went with it. I was going to reroute to pin Z but my truck has no wire there so just because I'm lazy I checked the settings with it just cut and it was already set to what I wanted so I just left it that...

That's how I have my truck wired. I can select 55 or 81 with a toggle switch. Works with all the controllers I've tried. I went over that in post number 1 of this thread.

You don't have to do that - just cut wire number 1911 and leave it as an open circuit. That will enable 81 psi mode (M1088/M1089).

You misspelled Stellantis. Or Fiat..... Whichever is closer for that particular model of their progeny. "Jeep" is a brand name. Fully owned by a European investment group that is not headquartered in the USA therefore Jeep is no longer an American brand. Not that this matters in the slightest...

Pretty much noises or leaking or the bushings are falling out, etc. If you don't see any oily stains streaking down from the shaft - it's likely just about as good as when it was made...... Which is not a statement of suitability for any particular purpose.

I've installed several BRAND NEW (not even old stock - as in manufactured in the last 2-3 years) shocks and compared them to my 2008 units and can discern no difference between them. If you move them slow they move very easy. If you try to move them fast they get so stiff you can't move them at...

Deleting the springs turned them into a simple shock - other than *not* buying a new thing - I did "delete" them in the sense that they aren't a coil over anymore. It was a free modification that ended up making a lot of sense. I'm still technically using the stock parts though so I'm calling...

They aren't nitrogen filled shocks. I've never seen one fail that wasn't rusted out. And in any case they are all over the place being used on A1P2's manufacturered up through 2021 and will still be used on the A2 wrecker that is staying with the A1P2 LTAS cab layout. So these will be literally...

I would just encourage you to delete the coil spring first, install a habitat second, and then the third step will be deciding if you even need to do anything else once you have removed the armor package springs and have full habitat weight........ I'm not. It's perfectly fine IMO. And I'm not...

Locking the center does cause the driverain to bind - even on loose surfaces - rocks, etc - the axle will stll bind since it has no differentiation so the driveshafts are going to unload when the binding overcomes the friction - there will be *less* friction on loose rocks but not zero so it's...

Had one lock out hard and didn't have the time to wait for it to possibly bleed down and it probably would not have bled down since the fluid was basically chunky mud. So if there's a tire on there, pull the shrader core and deflate it. This will give better access to the cotter pins to remove...

That diag port usually has a cap on a chain covering it for use. That is a CANBUS and diagnostic port that is not used on the FMTV A1's. It can be hooked into the J1939 and the VR will report alternator RPM, temperature, both voltage outputs, load percentage, and likely a few more things that...

There is no voltage regulator wiring to "figure out" - it's just the E ring terminal that gets the K11 relay signal to start the alternator. Same as the 100. The wiring between the two is absolutely identical. RPM is no issue. The alternator makes it's rated power by the time the engine is at...

Winch hydraulic filter, and armored cab hydraulic lift system filter I believe.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-28600-Disc-Brake-Piston/dp/B0002SQUFY If you carefully file pins on the side where they are D-shaped they can be contoured to fit in the intake valve cages. Just be careful that the force is being applied uniformly so you don't crack the cages. I've done like 5 or 6...

The truck itself draws very little power so I wouldn't expect it to be an issue at at the moment. It WILL present to you when the temp drops if you have a grid heater - those draw something like 90 amps at 28v and will load the cold alternator and belt that are both ~15 degrees and the belts...

The kit slings the alternator out further to get more belt wrap. The 260 and 300 when loaded can barely operate without belt slip as it is. Having the alt too close to the engine reduces wrap on the pulley and thus power transfer. They already slip when heavily loaded, or when the belt is old...

Ah yes the 1224 is the FMTV 260A dual-volt. A single voltage 260 would be significantly smaller and likely easier to fit.

PCU vent is on the side of the PCU. Earlier models have the vent routed to behind the grill. Newer models have it just vented under the dash. You should rebuild the PCU.

Nope. You just need new wheel valve diaphragms. That's what they do when they get old and hard. They get progressively worse at holding pressure and the controller will keep trying - it will fault out after 10 tries. It's inflating but the wheel valves don't hold pressure so when it waits one...