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It's in the manuals. First aid kit, mostly, but you can easily fit a 35 amp SLA battery in there for a dual voltage generator sytem, plus some room for other stuff.

Drove around with my daughter the other day. She noticed the padding/sound proofing I'd installed made the truck about HALF as loud. I own a dB meter, should've done before and after. Oh well. Then we hit an open stretch of road and I ran it up to 55. Still quieter, but "shouting over"...

They're for sale over on epay. I've seriously considered one myself but for the bows.

"Horizontal" motor? Who's selling these? Size, price, lays right/left? Inquiring minds.

Welcome to the madness. Nomenclature is important. Download the manuals and print them at Kinko's or your work laser printer - they're several thousand pages that make great bedtime reading. There WILL be a test. ;-)

Safety wired a couple of 3/16" linch pins to the pioneer tool rack. I saw somewhere on Juan Prado's build that he had used different pins, so I ordered a set of these from amazon. Think they were about $4 and change delivered. Could've waited until I was in a tractor supply store, but just...

That's how I drove mine home from the seller's lot: 42 miles of Beltway/interstate, passed two Maryland State Police cars (off to the side ticketing someone) en route. No plates, not registered to me, just a bill of sale. Son in his car behind me every inch of the way as sort of a "shield"...

Price has ME thinking it might be a good idea to buy a set for "insurance."

So sorry. But it's an easy enough thing to replace/repair. Shop around, they can be had for under $500, you can buy rebuild kits for much less than that.

Sounds like you're in neutral. If you're turning the shifter by hand, you should get four distinct notches which you do. They are: HL - H - N - L. "N" being second from the rear. THAT's on the INDICATOR as well on the TC. The order on the TC is reversed from what you SEE on the...

Always with the negative waves.

Was that THEIR glass, or glass you bought elsewhere?

Your choice here: http://www.hummerpartsguy.com/search.asp?keyword=6003519&search= Also sells new seals. Instructions are around here somewhere, you need a LOT of a good quality windshield installer's lube and patience.

Before the moderators shut down this thread (see "Da Rulz"), my truck was titled in MT when I bought it, no exceptions regarding on/off-road. Local seller and SS member "decodeme2" (now deceased :sad:), I have NO idea how this was done from Maryland on a truck that came out of North Carolina...

OUTstanding! Congratulations.

Bravo. Looks like you're doing an amazing job in the restoration. Welcome to the madness. Norm

I meant packard connectors, for general use. Meanwhile, I'm amazed at your talent and patience in making your own harness. Since installing the NP242 in my truck I've bought the TC light to go with the switch that's built-in to the TC. There's no lead off the engine harness (being a 6.2L...

That would be MY first guess too. It took me a LOT more time than I thought it would to reinstall and adjust the control linkage for the TC in my truck. Yes, I had the TM/manual, everything printed out, good lighting, etc. It was just a matter of trial and error, maybe four or five times...

A $40 sandblaster from HF was one of the best tool investments I ever made. That and a 50 gallon air compressor, needs something like 90 psi and 6 cfm flow to work well. I've refinished dozens of FN-FALs, CZ-82s, 1911s, couple of M1s (carbines and Garands), cabinet handles and more with that...

About that 18 gauge wire. I thought about buying some, but I couldn't find connectors for it. It's listed as several hundredths of an inch smaller in OD than the 16 gauge IIRC, I was afraid it wouldn't make a water-tight seal with the 16 gauge connectors.