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Good lord my head hurts. Why oh why did I decide to do a search before changing the oil in my trans this weekend.aua

IIRC the top speed on a stock a3 is 52 (not that a stock a2 is much more)

The shop he found to work on it. I'm pretty sure they know they have him over a barrel and there's not much he can do about it. (unless he picks up his truck and drives a good 50 miles away parks the truck and doubles back in the backup-vehicle to "take care of some business" before finishing...

I read that yesterday that they were giving him S*** about his torque converter being "lost" then not "lost". I'm only 50 miles from his truck, wish there was something I could do to help.

Read this and you decide if they are worth it. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/members-rides/73980-won-my-first-a3-gl-today.html (sorry steve, just using you as one example, we all know what an a2 trans costs):p

Whats everyone fails to realize is this is really just a test to new members. Ask a newbie question and see what happens. If you can handle the replies (even the one you dont like) and just let it roll off like water off a ducks back, you'll fit right in. If you get all bent out of shape and...

Can I play too? Everyone here that comes in and tells someone else, "hey, why dont you mind your own business" or "cant you just ignore the post if you dont like it", needs to remember that they them selves are just as guilty. If you dont like it, just ignore it and just move on. Does that...

Check your front axles at the knuckles. (u-joint, cv joint) Something in that left front may be binding.

If you can put a 5ton (HEMMT) rim on it, you can put a R22.5 (big rig, semi truck) rim on it.

Its sheet steel, not aluminium.

Got the Tech. Manuals? JATONKA's M35 TM download page

I dont think you need to do anything for the back tires. No need for machined thimbles, just get some more front lug nuts.

:funny:

I use a 6" long piece of 4" drain tile tube with a drain tile plug on the end of that. Fits tight enough to hold it self on, but will blow off when started (if you forget to remove it) and lite enough not to do any damage.

One the data plate on the upper right side of the dash. Edit: I see from another thread that your data plate is missing. Are you looking for the NSN or the vin# of your truck? The vin# should be stamped in the frame rail. Drivers side, outside side of the frame behind the front tire. IIRC its...

He wasn't a very good survivalist was he. (sorry I thought it was funny) Buy that on the condition that you get everything in the back. I bet theres some real goodies in there. The pressure tanks you mentioned are the air tanks. The rest has already been covered. Go download a -10 Tech...

While your swinging that BFH, hit the lunette on the end, like your trying to drive the trailer backwards. I know it looks wrong, like your trying to drive the pintle in deeper, but it works. Also if you have a small (14" handle) pipe wrench, it will work just as good as the 1 1/2" wrench...

If its just a matter of a few inches and the cargo bows, you could just let some air out of your tires before you put it away. That is if your CTIS is working.

Its got an aftermarket fiberglass top. The measurements you need are on the data plate, get a tape measure and measure the wheel base. That 109/185 box definately doesnt belong on that truck. (wheel wells dont line up) Look at the frame behind the cab to see if you can tell if it has been...

Keep us posted. We are all cheering for you.