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I was just thinking about the valves and fittings from the tractor.... the pump that could run off the PTO would probably need to be sourced separately.
I have a good friend I used to shoot ACTS with who builds hydraulic systems for specialty ag trucks. If you would like I could send him a...
Find a tractor that does everything you want.
Put a pump that matches those specs... say for a John Deere 4440?... and put that on a PTO running on your truck.
Find junk JD 4440 and liberate hydraulic valving/connections/etc.
Mount valves and ports as desired.
Seem logical to everyone?
I could recommend a few agricultural shops that could design it for you. Basically, add a hydraulic pump to the PTO, a reservoir tank, etc... It has been talked about, and done in the cases you mentioned.
Google search "wet kit" under truck accessories and you will find what you're looking for...
The company that made Home Depot's paint mixer machine went belly-up and left them with no product support. That is why the codes changed... there is a new machine mixing it.
Actually, I missed his second post where he mentioned it. I only saw Gringletaube's. I was looking at the fleabay listing and missed it there as well... *(it's under the hose)
My bad.:oops:
No, you were right... that's an oil-to-air cooler. There can be no assist ram because there is no ports in the system to support one. That is also NOT a simple orbital valve to control an assist ram.
Not to rag on the design... I'm actually defending it.... at least as long as it doesn't rip...
You are forgetting something.
The box will see the exact same amount of force as if there was a human... the amount required to turn the wheel.
When it hits the post, it's possible that servo could put out FAR more torque than the input side of the box was designed to take.
Edit... the force...
If the tractor jumps, you won't have time to hit the clutch.
It's like the test of yanking a stalk out of a combine head. If you yank it out you're fine... but if the head grabs it you can't physically drop it fast enough to avoid being yanked in.
You might do it... but one slip, and you're...
I edited the post for more info...
You use 3M glass/ceramic microballoons. They are dirt cheap... $5/gal.
You just use a roller to apply, and mix enough paint of whatever temp rating you want into it to make the mix "wet" enough to roll on. Most people use these to mix into resin on model...
The "Lizard Skin" is just paint with micro-balloons.
Make it with any latex you want, in any color you want, for $20 a gallon.
Edit: I figured I would expand this. For simple sound deadener, use latex housepaint mixed with 3m glass microballoons.
For "High Temp" insulating paint, use...
You just gave the data for STICK welding rods.
To the OP...
...what kind of machine do you have,
...what position are you attempting to weld (flat surface, vertical surface, angle)
...what is the thickness of the material you are welding,
...what is the wire you are using,
...and what are...
Have you tried a rebuild kit o-rings from NAPA? I don't think that pump is a "snowflake."
If you can find what failed in the old one by disassembling it, and fix it you win... If you take it apart and it's not worth rebuilding, you aren't out anything.
Or find an S-280 insert. I think those are about the same size as the 109, but slip inside the M35 bed. I could be wrong, but if I am someone will chime in with the exact info. It might be easier to find one of those close to you.
Minor side question... has anyone tried to rig some RV style jacks to a 109 van body or bed and made them easily swap-able? I didn't see anything when I did a search.
The closest thing I found was a guy with a crane truck placing a bed on a raised block frame.
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