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every model comes with heat. The early ones the heat output sucks, but it's there. The only ones that came factory with aircon are the ECV/REV (most of them do, some ECV do not I believe). Built into the fenders and the dash. many of the M1123s had aircon added (RED DOT units with the huge...

There really isn't an exact answer to this. My understanding is the rebuild facility has a set amount of money they are allowed to use to "rebuild" each truck. This usually means they'll put in a rebuilt engine/transmission, and replace all of the common wear items. Anything else that is...

you can't find a separate part number because it's still part number 5 in the diagram. https://www.easternsurplus.net/PartDetails/5620/Left-Hand-LH-Body-Service-Cowl-Assembly

Just felt I should mention again a couple highlights. The winch came with 4ga cables. Not saying this is good or bad, but it is what it is. Probably more than good enough considering the 12V winches come with 2ga and run at twice the amps. their remote uses some type of chinese plug that's...

So an update: Between rain showers I was able to get some wires made up and installed. Running the positive cable from the battery box (through 300 amp breaker) along the top of the frame rail to the front of the truck. I removed the contactor assembly from the milemarker plastic covered box...

I've never had difficulty with installing the serp belt. The idler on top on the driver's side that the belt runs underneath, I just push down/lean down with my hands on both sides of it, and that's enough to get it off that idler. After that it's just finding the next pulley it can slip off...

To add to what Action said, if they are tightened down too far the studs can also get deformed along with the lug nuts. Easy way to check. Get a nut of the correct thread (not a locking type) and spin it on. If you can't spin it on relatively easily (and by that I mean at most using a short...

That should only be when it's actually producing power to that load. The rest of the time it's just robbing the power needed to keep it spinning, plus a little more for the extra mass/electronics. If nothing else though, you're going to go through belts a lot faster with it, especially if you...

check to see what the manufacturer of the wheel recommends that you use.

there are also other options for springs. There is at least one person selling custom springs for these that give a MUCH smoother ride, and can do things like lift the truck a little or whatever else you want.

The part number you linked is for up armored rear springs. It might very well be correct for what is in your truck currently. However, if you don't like how roughly it rides (the uparmored springs don't seem to feel any softer until you're over 9k lbs gross weight) then changing to the original...

M1123 is UOC "NNN" in the -24 Now, if you don't know what any of that means, you should probably learn, as that is how you will find all the parts for your truck. Go to this link and download everything there https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/tms-for-the-m998-series-hmmwv.78861/...

then we take that NSN and do a search for it in PartTarget and find this The list below is of all the different part numbers and by which manufacturer the part number belongs to, that make up that particular NSN (National Stock Number)...

That part number isn't in the parts manual that I can find. It also doesn't come up in PartTarget, a website that has pretty much every part number in it that has an associated NSN (government part numbering system number basically) You should probably go to the TM section and download the...

So a couple years back I bought some stuff through govplanet, but it was actually a private collection of surplus. They said they were selling the ambulance bodies directly to plan b or one of those other upfitter type groups for $5k eack. The armored version was $8k. This was not too long...

My serpentine belt only starts squeaking at me when the belt is out of alignment. For me though the squeak is at startup during the glow plug pulsing, and then whenever I'm adding load to the engine. The cause of mine is the generator rear mounting bracket sheared the exhaust stud (twice now)...

normal. My guess it is for installing an eyelet to use a lift/hoist to install/remove gen.

control box is just there until I get the wiring sorted out. There really isn't a good place to install it at the front of the truck near the winch, and I'm almost certain I will have to extend the wires for the control plug. Plenty of space to reach in there and operate the clutch mechanism...

Yes, I've already done the A-arm bolts. I used a farm jack to lift the tire off the ground slightly, and that relieved enough pressure off of it that I could tap it through using a brass drift punch and a hammer. I didn't mention those tools in the list above because: A) I forgot B) not really...