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Your 6,5l GEP engine is not supposed to run at 700 rpm ? +- 25 I don't know what the GEP engines are supposed to idle at, it might be 700 like you say. 6.5 and 3 speed makes me think it's likely a detuned 6.5, and the specs should most likely match the 6.2. I say most likely, but I am just...

redline is 3600 rpms, though I've also seen it said that is the max rpms under load, and under no load it could do 4200 rpms, but what's the point of that? Idle is around 550 rpms give or take 25 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Detroit_Diesel_V8_engine

I also can't say 100% certainty, but the M1123 series was still being made in the mid 2000's. When the trucks get reset sometimes the data plate gets replaced and the only date found is the reset tag. GM stopped manufacturing the 6.5NA engine in 1999/2000 timeframe, then GEP began making them...

None of the military engines were electronic, even the GEP 6.5 and the 6.5 turbo motors aren't electronic any more than the 6.2 they replaced. Any non-turbo military 6.2, 6.5 GM or 6.5 GEP should bolt right in no issues, no major modifications, and as RWH said, the 6.5 GEP has much better...

First of all, just because it is off grid doesn't automatically mean that the codes don't apply or can just be ignored. It might be true in your area, but unless you've talked to an electrical inspector, the power company, or a professional electrician who knows the codes in your area don't...

also in the picture 2 of them use shiny retainer bands, the other 2 flat black. Between that and the shiny paint (can't find a single shaft that has anything other than flat black) and the pricing being lower than everyone else, I personally wouldn't put any faith in them

JP8 is basically A1 jet with some additional additives. Diesel is similar to both without any of the additives needed for high altitude and whatnot. I know we ran our HMMWVs on diesel or JP8, just used whichever was closer at the time. In the end I don't think it will make any difference...

They used to be a good choice, but now it seems to be hit or miss as to whether they are OEM or Chinesium. If your budget is a little tight and doesn't allow for a full set of OEM, you can pick up half shafts from Autozone with a lifetime warranty. Just use a 1992 Hummer H1 for the parts in...

Wolfer Parts has a long and sordid history with selling Chinese parts; it's worse that they use deceptive wording to try to make them sound like they are OEM when in reality they aren't even close. There are a few reputable distributors like Hummer Parts Guy (HPG), Kascar, or Mac Motors and...

Tone rings are for the ABS on the H1. As Action said, you don't need them for the HMMWV. (Also, that "new" set on ebay is likely made in China. They might work fine, or they might have major issues soon after installing them. For good quality half shafts you should purchase from one of the...

What wire size you run depends on what you are planning to power/how much draw. That also determines what size fuse. Simple wire chart here: http://www.offroaders.com/technical/12-volt-wiring-tech-gauge-to-amps/ For automotive applications, 14 gauge is usually good for 15 amps, 12 gauge for...

if you plan to use it a lot with the engine off then the converter is also a better idea to keep from running down the rear battery, but if your batteries are in good shape and you aren't running the stereo full blast for hours on end or leaving the dome light on for days at a time it shouldn't...

You can get away with wiring things straight to the rear battery as long as the amount of load doesn't get too high. For the older trucks with a 60 amp generator you'd definitely want a converter due to imbalance, but the 200 amp is a 24/12 output, and provides up to 50 amps of charging to the...

if you thought that many was a pain in the butt, try the 24 bolt wheels. Twice as many bolts to torque, and as you have to do a 2 stage torque, one set of wheels involves almost 200 uses of the torque wrench. I'm not looking forward to doing mine when the new tires get here, but the wheels were...

So looking up part numbers and crossing it to an NSN ( 3030-01-524-2460 ), the belt in your hand is for a truck with a serial number higher than 196901, and the one I posted is a shorter belt, for trucks with a serial number 196900 and below. For my truck it's only 110.75 inches, so if yours...

I tried finding the belt listed above on the NAPA website but it isn't showing up for me. Gates K081102 is the same belt (and judging by the NAPA part number NAPA is buying them from Gates) For tensioning, I can barely force it on by hand with no tools, but using a ratchet or breaker bar on...

So got hit by some pretty good wind last night. I forgot to take the shelter down before going to bed. Found the tent about 30 feet from where I had set it up, upside down. Fortunately I didn't have the end walls zipped down or the bottom hooked to the floor holding the two sides together, so...

sounds like just plain bad luck combined with a less than adequate inspection. As for the DC shunt, it isn't a fusible link, it will do nothing to stop current flow in the case of a shurt circuit. The below taken from http://www.cromptonusa.com/DC%20Shunts%20Theory.pdf DC Shunts: Direct...

reset machines will also be up to date on upgrades as of time of reset, such as the quad fuse mod and the like. I don't know what upgrades there might be or stuff like that, so don't know if that part really matters.

Max possible speed and max sustained speed are two different things. When most of us talk about max speed, it's the max sustained speed you can do. That's why 55 is considered max top speed for the 6.2/3 speed. You can go faster than that, but you risk destroying the motor if everything isn't...