Search results

the ability to identify a Newer model hmmwv with the term REV A or REV B in absence of a better term is priceless for those getting calls on a daily basis….while some seem to have a problem with this, I could frankly careless, when a customer calls and says “I have an M1165A1” that still leaves...

On a side note, hows the Turret been holding up as far as any leaking?

not a HMMWV

Today, All bolts on the HMMWV are Zinc-Aluminum coated Grade 8.

What is it about the word “test” your not getting…it’s a test, not a way of driving the vehicle , the same way i test every truck that comes through my shop, or a transmission shop checks after a rebuild.

FYI, every automatic trans works the same way…so a google search on TCC will result in hundreds of responses.

That’s all normal behavior, your RPM’s won’t rise, you need to understand that the TCM gets input from TPS, CPS, TISS, TOSS…that’s why you keep your foot on the gas pedal and hit the brake pedal. The TCM knows by the fact you removed your foot off the gas via the TPS. You don’t have an...

The switch can be bad, out of adjustment, but your TCC does not unlock just because you take your foot off the throttle. Also, your TCM will generate a DTC if it’s either stuck locked, or stuck unlocked…pull codes from the TCM. you missed the point of my post, I pointed out the proper method to...

The DWF is frankly useless…at least the CDR and valve are. Most important is preventing water injestion into the engine, which is left intact.

To test your TCC lockup, drive the truck down the road at 50mph, with your left foot, tap the brake pedal while keeping your right foot on the accelerator, upon tapping the brake, the rpm’s should spike u…

the more Uninsulated metal you add to the trucks cab, the higher the cab noise level…

as I stated, the website is confusing, there are 2 different part numbers for the two variants…yet the website is description is misleading and vague.

Also, the JLTV is not a 1 for 1 replacement for the hmmwv…

hmmwv’s are still being mfg’d, The Army even pulled and reallocated JLTV funds to hmmwv production because the JLTV is a disaster. https://www.thedrive.com/the-war-zone/41439/joint-light-tactical-vehicle-funds-redirected-by-army-once-again-to-buy-new-humvees

I only say this because the website for champion I thought was a bit confusing on the application and part number…99.9 don’t know the difference and they don’t make an upper radiator hose to fit if you install the wrong one.

Hummer H1 radiator and HMMWV radiator are different, the H1 inlet is farther to the drivers side than it is on a hmmwv.

As a business owner, for liability reasons and just plain reliability, I only use OEM, NOS and distributor supplied parts, especially on braking components. I only do business with HPG, Mac and Kascar, unfortunately the company’s you listed are more than happy to play with words and unsuspecting...

Of course the piston at one side would be farther extended than the other if the pad thickness was different, doesn’t mean the pistons are frozen, any caliper requires the piston to be compressed to install new pads. it’s not uncommon also for one pad to wear different than the other, but verify...

there is no issue here…v-belts regardless of matched set or not will bounce around at idle.

If your taking a voltage reading from the rear battery while engine is running, of course you have 14.5 volts, the 14v tap feeds the rear battery off the regulator, it’s designed this way to prevent an inbalance due to the draw from the TCM and other 12v accessorie.