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Yes, but only for the first half minute or so, until everything has cooled down enough. After that you will probably end with a slight vacuum inside...! Ideally we should run at zero pressure difference, either way. BTW: fording 4 feet of water means about 27 inches water column over the hub...

There are threads discussing that very same subject: modern inner hub seals? or Axle Seal/Hub Thoughts Besides that a suggestion........... from our list of Rules: • Keep your posts on-topic. G.

Getting off-topic here, but still better than starting a new thread... Eventually the "slop" can be reduced by adjusting the preload screw a bit, but that will not restore the typical wear spots. Clearly, both stud-ends on the pitman shaft (what is in contact with the worm) seem to be the weak...

Completely rebuilding, in frame: NO way! May be you could service/replace the bearings #7; but what about something as basic as replacing the Pitman-shaft oil seal #4...? Read this thread, how to remove the steering box. G.

See this post.... G.

I don't see a problem there. The one I have with no-hole/no groove is 39.5mm total lenght, vs the other ones at 38.6-38.9mm. Dogs on all are about 7/16" tall. Now, while testing/ comparing them all with a file I found that just the one type that you have is relatively harder, so you may need to...

Each one of those belong to a PTO unit. And even if I had one to spare; shipping would be the deal killer, for sure... Sorry. G.

You are right; not all are... just went through my parts bin and found one (out of 4) that has full-length splines - and no set screw hole. I wouldn't hesitate for a second to put that part in a lathe, remove Ø54mm x 3.5mm and keep the snap ring in place. Better not rely on that tiny setscrew...

Nope; splines are recessed, so the retaining ring still has room, with the drive clutch resting against the bearing. G.

It is 1/4"-20. Clutch part is tough steel but non-hardened, so drilling and tapping should be doable. You may want to cut/ turn the groove for the safety wire, also. G.

Ty, I guess you are referring to the 1/4" BSP plug facing to the rear of the TC...? See my post here. It would be interesting to know if that Tee WITH checkvalve was an upgraded version of the std setup. Normally it simply takes a std elbow fitting, down there, with no check-valve. Then both...

Black-, blue-, red-silicone, or Loctite 518.... and NO gasket. Or paper gasket + Indian Head (Permatex shellac compound). G.

It takes a stud, then the lever, a washer, a castle nut and a cotter pin. (TM9-2520-246-34P, Fig.14) G.

I would make sure that it was replaced with the correct bearing, in that it is shielded, on the inside. NTN/NSK part number: BL308 ZNR G.

You might want to read this thread first: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?75224-Pressing-Torque-Rod-Ends-In-Out G.

Not everyone is so lucky, Tom. Usually when you start "working" them off-road, plus moderate to heavy loads, those bushings won't get old. At least I had to change out a lot! Surprisingly some of the very old ones I had, out-lasted later generations in many cases. It may mostly depend on the...

Keep the axles centered? ....from wandering back and forth....? :-? Do you mean laterally centered- maintaining the rear wheels aligned...? If so... and you needed a Panhard bar to be able to run dogbones with Heim joints then you would need the same for Erik's or Boyce's joints, too. Which is...

Responses: #1 YES. #2 No additive in the world will restore worn synchronizer dogs... #3 It may help the syncro stay in gear, but at the cost of a new shift fork, if done for too long. (see this post here) G.

No, they don't. Those are MRAP- wheels/tires. to Gunzy: FMTV-wheels do fit! G.

YES SIR, please! (you prolly missed my PM from a week ago?... will FW it in a minute!) Many Thanks, G.