Search results

You could also use the earlier cable controlled valve, then if you wanted to you could install a cable to control it, VERY handy in S TX where it can be in the low 50s in the am and high 80s in the afternoon.

It likely has nothing to do with engine heat. If you have a return line issue it can take some time at speed to cause fuel starvation. (when the fuel pressure in the body equalizes with the transfer pump in the IP, the high pressure head actually starves for fuel) If you have a fuel tank vent...

Sounds like a fuel starvation issue, how do you know it is overheating? BTW most diesels will run until they melt down, not simply stop running. It could possibly be a return issue. but more likely a starvation issue or possibly a vent issue, did you remove the check valves in the suction and...

If your controller is programmable the crank sensor on that engine gives 4 pulses per crank revolution.

Basically this is what you have. But again you do not want to ground the "return" lead at the engine, it should be the same location the EZ controller is grounded or you can damage the controller with voltage spikes. It is best on all sensor wiring to use twisted pair to reduce noise caused...

It should not.

One of the two leads must be grounded or the controller will not see any signal on the other lead, you should use twisted pair wires and ground the lead at the same place the controller is grounded. There are different types of crank sensors but the HMMWV one did work with my TCI controller on...

Please post some pictures of your fuel system. The filter should be after the pump.

Are you saying fuel pump or injection pump (IP), you should never try to start it with no fuel going to the IP which cannot happen with a line disconnected.

I am confused, are you trying to run the engine with the fuel line disconnected? That seems to only way it could "run" with your finger on the end of the fuel line. with an electric pump you should have good flow or you should not even try to run the engine, also you need good batteries at all...

I see allot of IR/HID bars on the auctions sites. Do these have the drivers needed inside the bars, to say some homebrew solution can be used to switch them on and off?

Did you ever get a solution for mounting the 5080?

It should read the same voltage as the batteries or real close anyway, if you are seeing 34V on the IGN terminal then the reg is likely bad.

I got the front evap. mounted today, I am normally not a big fan of engineers but I am grateful they designed the front evap. to mount to the same mounting holes that the Basic heater mounted to.... If anyone does this or even just replace a bad heater core it was money well spent to get new...

1st make sure you are seeing the high voltage at the IGN terminal on the regulator, that is what the regulator uses as a voltage reference, if for some reason it is "low" then the alt keeps cranking up the volts to try to compensate. Other than that you likely have a bad regulator. Edit, there...

I wonder who the brainiac was that came up with "military surplus" sounds like an old duffel bag full of C rations. The Texas plate says "military vehicle" IIRC

Thanks, I will PM you

Thanks, this is for the Red Dot system, Coug posted a link that had the numbers I needed.

You can start a new post, but I think your question was answered in the second post on this thread, yes you can use soft doors with a hard top,

Welcome to the SS forums!!!