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Many of the switches are out of adjustment, the early switch just controls brake lights, the A2 lights and torque converter unlock. I’ve had Adjust almost half the trucks I’ve receive as TC won’t unlock. its a PITA to get spot on sometimes.

predator? Hmmm, ok...hopefully it all works out

its called a woodruff key, I’ve seen these repair done before, the guy built the area Up around the key way with a mig welder, than ground it down and cleaned it up.

I know a guy in Florida who can probably do it...may even have motors. where are you at?

So how do you plan on making the DS4 injection pump Work? Needs an ECM to run as well as PMD. just me personally, I would never want a DS4 pump over a DB2 for any reason. Is your plan to make a H1 takeout work? If so, You may find it a lesson in futility and no cost benefit. Why not just get a...

This is not entirely uncommon, it’s caused by a failing harmonic balancer Most of the time. plenty of takeout 6.2 and 6.5‘s on the market, easy swap

The connectors on the box is very crappy aluminum and strips out super easy. if the threads get buggered up at all on the initial install, it will only get worse. The plug is steel, the box connector is aluminum, so they weld themselves together via corrosion,

Nkt Let me get this straight, you post Your turret never leaks, but add it only leaks after a heavy rain. The point I’m trying to make and have for 25yrs is, they all leak! mine Don’t leak! But I park them in my shop When it rains....makes about as much sense.

no, you stated nothing leaks...I’ve owned more Slantbacks than most Army units. I’m pretty well versed in them, as I build them from parts monthy.

“It’s does not leak any, but leaks after a hard rain“....LOL

just my .25 cents, but your going to be highly disappointed in the slantbacks abilities to stay dry inside regardless of or what you do, it’s really going to vary on degrees of how wet it will based on how much time and money you spend.

The wood decking is secured via self tap water screws, for the rear piece of wood “OEM” it takes 6 screws. The front wood for a 4 man is a bit longer than what is in a 2 man truck.

it’s on the rear of the engine on A2 4 speed trucks, it’s on the left side of the injector pump for turbo trucks. uses a cam on the throttle linkage

I have 6.2’s that beat the pants off of many 6.5 GEP’s. If it’s detuned, the 6.5 of any mfg makes it mimic the 6.2, thats why they labeled it “detuned”. If you want a super smooth motor, install a late Maximizer GEP 6.5 with larger IJ pump and injectors, you will need to do some throttle shaft...

Best is to get rid of the Brass OEM disconnects and go with stainless braided hoses and quick disconnects. the hub side QD nipple has a one way ball valve so when unplugged you don’t lose air on the opposite side tire.

The fan can only engage from lack of fluid pressure or denial of voltage...so a simple check of the voltage into the Cadillac valve will tell your quite a bit....hard stop left and right turns will engage the fan when unlocked, this is due too denial of pressure at full lock.

couldnt agree more, it’s a PITA in every truck I have, had and work on every day...

You need to take voltage readings, the fan engages when 24v is denied...I just Had this issue with a truck, fan engaged on higher rpm’s, was a bad Or clogged Cadillac valve...new valve and solenoid fixed it right up.

there is a shim added underneath the bearing cone, one of the spacers is specific to CTIS spindle as the new spindle is not square cut but instead is tapered.

to install CTIS spindles you need new control arm covers, new rods for the round ends, and a few various parts for assy. unless your adding CTIS, your going to need a few more things and it’s not worth it.