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GEP or not, it’s still an issue on the heads. you may be thinking #8 crack issue....this is not the same.

goes to show there is a fool born every day....those are Turbo truck prices. why you would spend that amount for a basic A0/A1 is beyond me, Gen set or no gen set. .

start switch for one, but do you get any voltage at the starter? You have a pos and negative at the starter. a bad EESS start box can cause same issue, there are also 2 breakers behind the instrument cluster.

The runflat is the Bead lock.

8-12 weeks for a first time buyer is a pipe dream....they are averaging that for buyers who buy 20-100 trucks a year. Expect to need a new motor, your missing your pump and intake manifold, at this point your heads are most likely full of water and/or valves are rusted to hell. frankly, the ad...

first off, you need good batteries...load tested. check for output of the gen at the generator and at the batteries while running, the battery charging runs through the PCB/EESS box. you can get new regulator for your specific Mfg gen on eBay...

That’s a kit part number....not a part number to a component in the kit. the directions should be in the kit. the battery box gets a metal reinforcement plate on top of the fiber glass battery cover. is your kit complete?

No idea want seat kit your putting in...is it the A2 upgraded bucket seats kit?

A0-A1 trucks use longer Rods Due to design of earlier control arm cove. A2 on up uses a straight control arm cover compared to slanted outward A0-A1 cover.

220 is operating temperature, everything sounds like it’s running normal.....leave it alone. understand that doing a flush can create more problems than it solves...

The CTIS manifold has a blow off valve at 50psi... The steering arm cover has the seal for CTIS, the biggest issue is that the nipple that passes through the seal get worn and grooved over time thus tearing the up the seal causing leaks. The bummer is, you Only know this after getting it all out...

Just order a new cable...they are on eBay, make sure to order correct cable...A2. Is longer...

The GP’s will cycle based on the engine temp, not the ambient outside air temp. The charging of the battery runs through the PCB/EESS box...So if you don’t show charging, check with a volt meter at the generator and than at the batteries to see what readings you get.

The PCB box you have is junk. As well as the glow plug controller in the water crossover. buy an EESS with TSU and change all you glow plugs at the same time.

the fix he used is one many have used...loctite makes some excellent epoxies for just such an occasion an old 6.2 is not worth much in respects for what you can get a good running takeout for. motors are an easy drop in fix, even for the shade tree mechanic.

The HB is some what press fit, it’s not a matter of if it will fail, but when. its not for alignment for any sort of timing, other than its location for reference. its does serve as a form of anti-rotation, but the woodruff key is made to shear. it could last forever or till something creates...

There is no drain for the 6.2, that came about on the later 6.5 with turbo embossment. 6.2 is low enough In the rear valley to just drain down the back of the motor. what I have noticed is the 6.5’s that have been rebuilt by Melton have had the drain tube removed and the hole plugged. only non...

Let me correct myself, A2’s are listed as 12.1k, but the only fit 10.3GVW trucks...large flange 12in vented rotors.

None that I see, it’s its just that the part number lists them as 10.3k....I’ve used small flange On large flange with an adapter ring I’ve had made and sold for years....I’m currently out of stock.

7 and 10k are interchangable, 10.3k are for all A2’s, many confuse these with 12k... than there is true 12k for solid rotor ECV trucks and 12.3k are REV for wilwood brakes. The flange size will dictate what you can mount...ECV and Wilwood use small flange. All others use large flange,