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I remember reading in an old PS comic book about switching the dip sticks to avoid dirt from entering and to prevent blown out dip sticks. If not in the PS. I know I read it somewhere. But mine have the red plastic lock dipsticks. I don't have time to look thru all them old books. Maybe someone...

I was just using that as an example. I drive mine for a whole day in low range and it does not leak any fluid. That is pulling wood and a wood trailer in mud and up and down a few steep muddy hills. But I would also make sure the correct dipstick is in place. i had a vehicle that had a short...

I am sure Rustystud will have an explanation for the symptoms you have described. I don't remember what was doing it when my transmission did the same thing. good luck. And what would it be if he was in low range. Just as an example? Just saying do you have an answer?

All my CUCV's have them as original equipment. That just makes it push out somewhere else. Like the vent tube on top of the transmission.See the red transmission dipstick?

I had a friend stop by and ask if I could check his glow plugs. No problem. I pulled them all out and bench tested them like I always do. I used the old battery charger test method and all 8 worked but 1 had a strage way of getting hot. It got hot back at the threads and at the tip. I could...

I dug thru my emails and I came acroos this form letter that GM sent out to the question on normal transmission operating temperatures. This is a copy of the email. Thank you for giving me the time to do some research on your concern with the transmission temperature. I have consulted one of...

I have a brand new Chevy with a towing package and the transmission goes up to 225-230 on hard hills and pulls. I quickly goes back down and like I said it has a towing package and an auxiliary engine oil and transmission cooler. I have an M1009 that used to spit transmission fluid out the...

I would take a look at the right side of the radiator. About 1/2 way down towards the engine side is a probe that sticks out. That connection may need a bit of cleaning. I have had that is the past. Nothing that cleaning the connection and putting a dab of dielectric grease could not solve. Good...

Today I went on I 81 and the Mule M1009 had a bit of trouble maintaining the 80 MPH I like to run at times. It ran good until yesterday on the way home it surged a few times. And then just went fine again. Today it was 26 out and I thought maybe I had some bad fuel and it was gelling. Well bad...

I am so confused with your situation. I would start at the beginning and check all the glow plugs. I would remove all 8 glow plugs because it will help you with the next step. open the bleeder on top of the filter and crank it over till you have fuel at the filter. Next open / loosen the fuel...

Well that is a result of maintaining a 53 acre industrial complex that we are constantly towing forklifts out of mud and dragging 10-30 steel dumpsters around with the CUCV's. So when they get forklifts stuck in the mud. I pull them out with the CUCV and back drag the ruts with the snow plow. It...

Then bump it up to 70 - 75. I do it everyday with a stock M1008 and it has an 8 FT Western snow plow on it. I drive I 81 & I 78 on a daily basis. Never hurt a thing. I have been doing it to the same truck for 20 years and 222K on it. I did replace the transmission 3 times and a couple of drive...

This vehicle came with a binder with every wire that has been changed or cut. What each wire is. With notes and highlighted diagrams in the wireing and any engine modifications. Im sure the next owner will be fine since i plan on keeping things going with this binder. Double check...

I prefer the plastic / aluminum radiators to the heavy old copper brass radiators. Glad to hear that DUDE is still in the game. The fact that DUDE had the radiator out before and was never-seized on the oil cooler lines helped a great deal. I have been having a snapping good time with the oil...

It is just a ground. Any cable wire would serve the same purpose. Hey glad to hear you have the old truck up and running again. It gives a good feeling when you go thru all that and have it back again. I went thru 4 sets of heads to find 1 good set. This time around I paid $650. to have them...

From the picture it appears that the flanges are not flush with the block. Are they flush with the block? That is what holds them in under extreme pressure. They expand and get tighter. If they are not flush with the block they expand and push out under pressure. If they are flush you are good...

Whatever. Getting back to the original issue. I think you (Warwag) have glow plug issues. Quite obvious. I have to get a new circuit card for a friends M1009 and I will be making a purchase soon. Like this week. From reading the posts. I see they are NOT always available. I also sold this M1009...

Next time I will use my slave cables. It still yields the same results. Stop creeping on my posts and belittling what I say. I should have said jumper wires. Of course I didn't expect to be graded and cross examined by the DOGHEAD. For my assistance D- = inappropriate use of terms jumper cables...

OK quick question. So if I am removing the glow plugs and bench testing them with a battery charger/short wire to a battery. I am not going to get the same results and diagnosis as the ohm meter? I Just remove all 8 plugs and get a visual on them. I have had a few over the years that were...

One quick question. Is the oil vapor/mist only present at idle? If so that is pretty much the norm. If you have the oil cap off at idle and you just step up the idle a bit. The norm is it the vapor/mist/smoke goes away. Check that out and see if it holds true. I know when I change oil I can...