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I have hella h4 housings with silverstars in the headlights and some cheapie LED lights in the lower holes on a relay that come on automatically with the headlights. I used an inexpensive cam setup it's a mobile home version with a long cable. I plan on doing a radio and some other stuff soon.
My 1083 winch truck has a tach so the setup has to be out there somewhere. The tach/switch housing on top of the heater box is a nice location for additional switches and stuff. I have a 1088 tractor that has the housing on the heater box but no tach in it.
Will
Interesting. I was curious about the theory behind the planetary hubs. Everyone looks at the axles and says how small they look compared to the older trucks' axles.
Same thing I did when I pulled my M931A2. The strap is a bit lower than the pintle it meets the height requirement. I was going to do a big shackle locked into the pintle but the strap worked well. I don't know what the pintle can handle compared to the two shackles.
I like to upgrade to LEDs all around they are more visible during the day especially. I have had a few almost accidents with people who didn't see or chose to ignore my turn signals. I can polish the LED headlights plastic face with my buffing wheel and the polish compound made for older plastic...
Maybe run it with the reservoir cap off. If there is air in there one would think the space taken by air would be exchanged for fluid and the reservoir level would go down a bit. I took mine off and no air got in the system I didn't have to bleed it when I put the new one back on.
I asked the Durham fair which is next week they said it was too heavy. Everything around me has a 8 or 10 k limit. I could try the humvee I dont think it will do much though.
The 2 relays are standard bosch style spdt relays in 12 and 24 volt. They
can be found inexpensively on the internet in bulk. Only get the 5 pin versions so they will
work in all positions. The military should have done this to begin with. The 4 pin version only adds to
confusion when mistakenly...
I had the trans in "mode on" and the tire pressure in cross county mode. Every time you go into neutral or reverse, when you go back into drive to pull you have to re-select low range by pressing the arrow down button until the right number is a 1.
The power panel has 2 buss bars going across feeding the breakers. One feeds 12 and one 24. At the left side of the panel are round lug holes that correspond. The relays are mapped out on the back of the panel cover. It's confusing some of the 12v relays switch 24v circuits and vice versa.
I believe it's self bleeding the pump and reservoir are one. Are you having an issue with yours? If you see puffs of "smoke" coming up then your internal pump seal is bad and will need to be rebuilt. There is a thread on it.
Swapped the blackout light for a 70w Cat hid high beam. Havent decided if I will leave it black or paint it green. I will never use the blackout feature I replace them with something else in all my trucks. Its really bright daylight visible at a distance. I will grab the wire under the dash and...
I was very surprised the truck was that capable. I have not turned up the fuel or done any mods other than leds and rev cam. I used a tow strap between the shackles for a hook point.
A friend fixed a few cracks in the fiberglass and sanded any spots that needed it. We rattle canned it with 383 green sub. I have a pair of Hawker batteries I have had good luck with them.
Just got back from the Orange CT country fair truck pull. The M1078 really performed. I was surprised I didn't think it was as capable as it is. I pulled 31k lbs of concrete on a sled on dirt and I could have done more. That was all the weight they have at the pull. To all the lmtv haters out...
Front gladhands need to breathe if they are clogged up your brakes will lock. Behind the front grill is a check valve if this is bad or clogged your brakes will lock.
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