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I broke the cable at the end where it meets the hook. It looks like a combination of some of the strands broke and some just pulled out. The truck is a pretty recent rebuild it looks like it wasn't put together properly to begin with. Either way I need to fix it. I found a previous thread...
24v is low. Open the cab with the engine running and there are 2 lights on the alt regulator. One each for 12 and 24 volt. Flashing green means they are working properly. If its not right then get the multimeter out and start taking readings at the regulator, alternator output and at the...
I used a few rare earth magnets I had from something else. I had tried a regular mag mount and it didnt feel strong enough. With the rare earth magnets its not coming off.
You can pull the shifter up its 4 small bolts. Look and see if it's working properly. Check your fluid engine warm running in neutral. Might be something simple if not in the shifter assembly or cable I would pay the allison dealer the hour or so of labor might be an easy fix. Sometimes money...
I can vouch for Eric (bikeman) he helped me a lot with a pickup. I don't think there will be any issues with trucks sitting at AAA. Just don't ask them to help or do anything with the truck.
Maintenance is important. I changed filters and fluids when I got mine and looked everything over. I chose the one I drive because it got a reman motor in 2012. It runs nicer than the same truck I have with a 90's motor in it. They are older vehicles and will have quirks. Electrical workarounds...
I dont really pay attention to the fuel consumption. Just fill it when its at 1/4 I dont like to let any of my trucks get below that. I havent swapped the starter yet. I have a new one coming at the end of the week. You need basic troubleshooting and mechanical skills to own any military truck...
I love my truck and drive it all the time. It does have its quirks. I was at Starbucks yesterday with my kids and the starter went. I had to jump the start solenoid with a clip lead and pound on the starter solenoid with a big extension and hammer till it started. The starter is in pretty tight...
I had AAA tow a non running LMTV out of Bragg for me a few months ago. They busted up the back lights and gladhands, dragged it on the tires and put flat spots on them and then charged me to do work on it that they didnt do. I would never use them for anything again.
The mil alt regulator uses an external sense wire. The new alt (which I have no experience with) may have all internal regulation. Then you would just need the positive and ground hooked up. Something is making the alternators regulator think its under voltage and its putting out too high...
If the dash meter is correct and the voltage is going up to 30+ volts then you have an alternator issue or the regulator wire is damaged somehow. Nowhere else on the truck for that high voltage to come from unless you have 3 batteries wired in series. I have seen several bad dash meters though...
I magnet mounted a whelen led scene light I had sitting around to see how it would work. I think a light bar of sort on top of the cab would work better. It does make an excellent bed light and does illuminate around behind the truck. Some light is blocked by the tail gate though. If I was...
If you search Mack CH regulator on the bay it's very similar. I was going to order one and try just haven't gotten around to it yet. They have a power version too I would like to upgrade to power windows. Volvo hand cranks work well as replacements also.
Will
I have a bracket set that might work on an A2 5-ton. Not sure if you can use the 24/28v only and leave the 12v unused. The regulator may not be happy about it. There are other options though and chances are the alt kits could be worth decent money to someone with the truck they were designed...
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