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Do not use the 14v tap as a direct source, pull from the rear battery, use the 14v tap to prevent imbalance, same as the all modern military vehicles do.

never seen a battery shop in my 30yrs in the business...at least not here in the Bay Area, but never actually looked for one either.

There's considerable controversy over whether it's best to hook up the master-shutoff ("kill") switch to the battery's positive or negative side. NHRA rules still mandate a positive-side hookup, but most stock-car sanctioning bodies want the kill switch on the negative side. I vote for the...

Here is my preferred location...

just my professional opinion.... -Always install the BCO to break the negative -Use the proper sized wire, not the undersized crap provided in all the kits -keep the BCO as close to the battery compartment as possible -use a rated HD marine application BCO -not a good idea to have the BCO...

6.2 wasn’t built in 2010,of all the trucks I’ve had, the engines used were GEP 6.5’s and Melton rebuilds that went into reset trucks. You can easily spend what another takeout 6.5 costs to buy From someone doing an upgrade and wants out of his garage. It’s much easier to just pull the motor if...

Compressor fixed...bad relay, multi-meter found no output when voltage applied, if I jumped it, it came on. $35 and all fixed...but it does not shut off now, so I’m looking for pressure switch wilspec 5200-189-0001 If I unplug the connector at the switch, it kills the pump.

supplemenal Ground harness just masks any real issues not fixed and waiting to rear there ugly head at the wrong time.

M1123 and M1097A2 are the same truck, as is any A2 truck for that matter.

than you better have extra money for another r4 after it grenades....the price is not much different, do it right the first time,

if I was researching this and had no idea what trans too install and found that the factory/military uses a 4L80e, as well as the vast majority of HMMWV shops performing conversions too same, I would do you self a favor and stick with the 4L80e.

I’ve seen this before...try unplugging the TCM under the left rear seat.

thank You, yes...seen that, Im a member on that forum

perhaps I can just short the leads together to test...I’m assuming it’s a normally closed circuit, once it opens it kills the power to the relay, possibility it’s stuck open.

the number is of absolutely no use....it’s used to track the truck during production. AMG will never answer the phone let alone provide info pertinent to a military vehicle to a civilian.

The axles definitely look like ford...haven’t crossed that bridge yet....is if anyone finds an alternativ, please post.

All TSU’s are compatible

Starters..,I was told that 200 of these at auction have no starters... the starter is a modified starter and hens teeth too find. I just had this conversation with mike at Blackdog customs Monday, there is a special adapter on the nose cone area on COTS starter to make it work in the BraziIan...

RF’s are the bead lock for all the military 2 piece rims, you can run without RF’s, just done air down if you go off road, or you risk blowing the tire off the bead. Lots of my customers don’t care about them and have me remove them. i personally want them on my trucks....

It’s not uncommon at all that trucks were given new serial numbers after reset, or even the wrong dataplate at time of assembly. Plenty of so called 2004 M998’s were listed for sale on GP...problem is, they didn’t make a 3 speed M998 in 2004, it was the reset date. This same thing is going on...