Search results

Yes, the worm must be out before you can pull the drum gear & shaft. It already is a relatively tight fit - AL housing to bearings, but here it's probably just rust not loctite, that holds it in place. Support the housing firmly and use a bigger hammer and a good piece of brass or copper in...

Correct. I just PMed you; will be posting dimensions here, soon. G.

Well, I only bought that clinching tool (#4506) but you are right, it actually takes a SET OF TWO tools; the second one (home-made) is needed to counter hold the rivet head inside the (countersunk) hole in the lining. Specs, pics and dims, below... G.

Dave, both rivet sizes are 3/16" shank diameter. That Hanson tool HT-171 is good for all 3/16" semitubular rivets. Regarding the first digits, 8 vs 7: it only makes for a slight difference in head diameter. I have found some of the shoes coming with size 8-head rivets. Second digit is for the...

:funny: G.

Suggestion: start reading here: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/rear-axle-alignment.43408/#post484056 , then jack tandem up as explained; check it yourself and report back what you found... G.

In my case it was $63 for 1000 rivets, plus about $30 for the tool. Plus freight charges, of course. G.

Guess I should have updated the info from that linked post....:oops: Since I'm in Uruguay and (at that time) Hanson would not accept CC as way of payment for intl. orders I ended buying here: Jay-Cee Sales & Rivet, Inc. | Rivets In Stock - Rivets & Rivet Tools The riveting tool I got (for an...

You know you can easily delete your first one if you want...? G.

Really? I say it is better (and probably cheaper) building your own, (re)using good US-made parts only... Your truck will outlast the one from Kia. G.

Stock caster angle only is about +1.5º to +2.0º. From my experience that is OK for the 9.00-20 NDTs, but not for super-single radials. You'll need at least +4º to avoid that wandering symptom. This is what I do.... (diagram, below) G.

It's six to one, half a dozen to the other....:smile: I have found them both ways; also after depot-rebuilt. FWIW; in the "down" position you can better read the dataplate..... and it would be more difficult to loose the adjusting screw, should it come all the way out of the nut... NOT...

Yes, like Sikaflex 221 or equivalents. See specs here: https://usa.sika.com/dms/getdocument.get/a84199c8-0bcc-3ccc-a021-f2cc42f4c3a6/ipd-pds-sikaflex221-us.pdf G.

You can do that .... or you could simply plug that hole with RTV or PU sealant and call it a day.;-) After X-many years (?) and whenever it became necessary to access that set screw again, it would be much easier for anyone to drill that stuff out, than getting the OEM plug (= 1/8"BSP) or your...

Will try to get info regarding crane weight and axle load distribution. I would say about 3 tons for the crane itself. That truck was built for off-road service only. Not sure if it would be street legal in your country. G.

Thanks, glad if it helps...! I would pay him a visit... I'm sure you can find something laying around that would take very little time and effort to make it work. G.

If not to be found you can always make one. See dimensions below. That wallowed hole in the clutch housing can be fixed with a short sleeve, pressed in and secured with loctite 290. No welding required and better than new! G.

:ditto: Pic #3 in my post #6 gives an idea of what could be done (has been done) for stiffening the whole frame and help better distributing the load and stress. G.

Not at all, although the stock M35 wheel has a bead flange (or "horn") height of little over 1-1/2", vs the ones on any industrial 10" rim, which are 2". Compare specs in chart & diagram, below.... G.

Somewhere there was one about it... if I could only find it now...:-? Some pics, here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce-modification-hot-rodding/38937-replace-split-rim-bead-seat.html#post428682 G. Edit: found it.... in the SS-history channel!:smile: This is the old thread...