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JCKnife: I would not recommend hitting that flange with a hammer! Material is soft and relatively thin (little over 1/4") and may end up deformed. Get a stronger puller if the first one was to small or weak. And while under tension do a quick heating of the hub, with a wet rag wrapped around the...

Good memory: 1-3/8" for the M35. You are right, I was wrong...! Sorry for the confusion :oops: G.

Glad you could find the original brake parts! Still wondering if M35 piston & cups could be used in M211 WCs BTW: diameter for both should be 1-1/4" nominal (or 1.257 max...?) G.

Something to read.... http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/20809-transfer-case-jumping-out.html http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/1165-transfer-case-slipping.html http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/14890-slipping-out-high.html...

YES. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/4182-rockwell-axle-verification-please-u-joint-style.html G.

Pics of a good tranny jack (adapted): http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/25935-transfercase-stand-jack.html vs the classic chainfall method: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/17892-air-shift-install-parts-t-case-install.html#post183652 or combined...

Looking at the third photo: that still is the old mechanical PTO-driven winch!? So were they planning to retain the original Spicer w/PTO, at first? Or was it an auto tranny with the mechanical winch PTO attached ?? G.

... like it comes from factory! Pic below showing why.... G.

... or correctly sized lead weights glued in place with PU-adhesive...! Ever since my first "un-ba-a-a-a-lance" issues running 40"rubber on a CJ7 (25 years ago!) I have been doing this with great results to every imaginable tire/wheel combo: see my post here...

More or less the same for the Deuce T-cases. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/55553-diagnosing-bad-transfer-case.html http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/14890-slipping-out-high-3.html#post534106 G.

9/16" is correct. Plugs may be screwed in pretty tight or even rusted in place. Be prepared and get a good allen wrench. G.

Don't be surprised to find std. #6309 ball bearings there (TM9-3830-206-34P, fig.2, item #6); on a shaft that is subject to over 4-times the maximum recommended axial load for that particular bearing! Upgrading to same size tapered roller bearings will take care of that... (pics) To bad I...

Will try to get P/N & specs but consider that this is stuff made in Argentina, so prob not many chances to find them in your region...? Anyways, for that motor, what would be the max. required flow in gal/min at 2000psi? From your post #17: I think you are talking about possible radial...

If it helps any... 1) I have disasssembled x-many doors and never found a single one having that particular "missing" regulator stop. 2) I have restored (not so many) doors to better-than-new condition and never felt it needed that bracket. I only know of one Book that is perfect... not the...

Very nice, clean build - as usual, Travis! Just an idea for next time...: placing the control valve in the left-rear corner of the cab (this picture) would give you the option of also reaching the handle while standing outside and better watching/controlling the action. Not clear: how would...

:ditto: to all! I tried stainless once: not so easy to get the flares seated tight & leakproof in the original brass eye- and T-fittings; always had to torque those connections to the very limit, close before stripping threads! G.

Depends if you consider 7+ inches a "little"...? (see diagram below) G.

Don't know if YOU can.... but why not give it a try! :razz: Yes, the PTO itself; the shifter & bracket; linkage, etc; all is exactly the same for both. G.

Guess the OP was referring to the connecting rod bearings only....? You don't have to lower or remove the crank for that....... :???: G.

Interesting! I take it from there that head gaskets have always been "one size fits all", regardless of style (1pc or multipiece w/ firerings). G.