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Usually just won’t run when gassed up...but anything is possible.
this is why we drain all our fuel tanks on GP trucks, more due to very very old fuel.
If when you pull a Halfshaft and you get 80-90GO between the HS and Rotor, it’s the stub axle flange seal Early version was just several o-rings stuffed in there, now it’s a specific seal. I still put a bead of rtv on the face of the nut when I install them as double protection.
So just what data do you think your going to get ? It’s a fully mechanical truck.
nothing you can’t already get with a ste/ice unit, nothing is adjustable as there is no ECM.
The A2 trucks can flash TCM codes and use modern diag tools for the trans side of the house.
I check the auctions daily....over 30yrs in the surplus Hobby/business, I’m totally perplexed at the opening bids for most items, maybe GP is scrapping everything that ain’t worth but scrap value, I don’t see anything the likes of what GL had for sale in the quantities GL had listed.
I for one...
ive never toques those bolts to 300lbs, air impact and red loctite
on the nut. I’ve pulled shocks on literally brand new M115’s and
the lowers nuts come right off.
A torch for heat is your friend...
The majority of the work is putting in the new trans and Tcase...the 4L80 and it’s associated components were made for this trucks applications. Prices vary greatly based on what you pay for each component.
if your patient, you can source a lot of it at very reasonable prices.
As I tell all my...
Funny how you have to build it up to get it even close to a stock 4L80e.
You aren’t saving any money, 4L80e is far more prolific then an R4, Parts are all over the place and cheap.
Ive consulted with many trans shops that want nothing to do with an R4, and yes, I’m aware everyone has an opinion...
I have and have had 6.2’s that blow the doors off brand new detuned GEP 6.5’s. The 6.2 is also a quieter motor.
you will only know about a trucks nuisances once you get it and drive it, This is where private party is best.
This topic comes up weekly, the answers are the same, buy what makes you...
Takes approx 1.5 to 2 hrs to do 4 shocks “includes cleaning and painting, less time if you don’t bother “ if your not using a torch to heat your bolts and nuts? Well....your going to be there awhile.
Just go on epay and search the part number, there are tons of stat card shocks for sale cheap....don’t go on a listing description, go on the part number or NSN listed, lots of folks get this 10k 12k thing quite confused I find.
you clearly didn’t read my post, OEM is 20k or so...after market solution with 4L80e is significantly lower, for obvouis reasons. I won’t touch an R4 for these trucks, not will any good transmission shop if they are worth there weight, but that’s an argument I’m not going to have anymore.
price depends on a lot of variables...OEM, after market. Currently working on an aftermarket solution, so till I’m done, I won’t have Labor costs in line.
OEM? Well, that depends on what you supply as far as parts, if any...most are going with drivetrain swaps, that’s about 23k give or take...
the cost of painting is in the prep work....I have trucks that take 40hrs or more to prep for paint, that equals money to any shop, not sure why folks think that taking any vehicle into getting Paint will be a $500 venture.
we don’t do Paint on a truck until we see the truck and it’s current...
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