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You realize running it in limp mode will only shorten the life of the trans and components right? its just not good to run it this way, it’s fine to limp to the side of the road and get you out of any danger, but running it all day and just driving it like it’s in 2nd gear is just going to cause...

You might notice this kit is on and for a turbo motor and not an NA....

Buy a take 6.5 turbo motor, you can thank me later.

The TM goes into depth on each gauge to test and isolate

Once again....diesels rely on heat to run, 180 is NOT the correct running temp range, folks need to get away from thinking gas motors? as far as your old fan clutch assy, it’s a very simple system, and works well, people just don’t understand it. your fan going on every 2mins is normal, thats...

200amp is more reliable, easier to remove...and if a regulator fails, it’s 4 screws and your done in less then 5mins. the 200amp is the standard generator for all HMMWV’s, the 60amp is out of the system.

Sounds like they are reversed...the cold advance plug has raised ribs on both the plug and connector

Make sure you didn’t swap the 2 wires on the injector Pump...one is cold advance, one is fuel cutoff solenoid, when reversed, the truck will die as soon as it hits approx 120 degrees....

Gotta say, I’ve wondered the same as of recent, I mean...what junk, Opening prices are just downright laughable. seems it would be advantageous for GP to distribute something as to there ultimate plan on how they expect this model to work. At this point, I’m starting to miss GL....not on the...

They are awesome, we sell them and have them in our trucks, as well we install in our customers trucks...

Only marine and navy trucks got fording kits, the hole is there from the factory for all hmmwv’s. there is a lot more to the kit then the intake, exhaust and a valve.

Long and short injectors also have s different thread pitch...fine and course, so based on the year of your heads, you can’t just use what you want on injectors.

You never want to mismatch diffs....I had a truck in the shop recently they had this same issue. installed a 2:73 to square it up...2:56’s are bit harder to find, 2:73’s are plentiful.

Charging of the batteries runs through the EESS/PCB on 60 amp generator trucks. your box is most likely toast...as well as your glow pligs

That’s for a pitman and idler Arm removal....ball joint uses a fork

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Your generator is not charging, easiest test is check voltage at batteries before start and then after, before start will be battery voltage, after start 27.5-28.5volts. A bad EESS will prevent your batteries from charging, assuming you have a 60amp generator, if a 200amp, then that’s a...

You need a 200amp conversion kit and a 200amp dual voltage generator. The conversion kits can be found for under a $100, gens Range from $450-???

This product you speak of has been mfg’d for years in the H1 market....I’ve installed a few, waste of money and absolutely over priced.

I going to puke if one more person refers to the #8 as a cooling issue.....once and for freaking all, it’s a defect in the casting of the block. The story is that GM's block design had a flaw in the way the head bolts in the Number 8 cylinder area went into the block. Stress was created that...