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Sure, these trucks are old now and any cable between the frame and battery, between the batteries, and the smaller gauge cable leading from the positive battery terminal to the engine area are all suspect. Remember the cable end terminals can be super clean while the corrosion lurks inside the...
The problems are related. When the alternator pegs out, the connection to the battery has been lost and the alt is "self exciting" without a reference voltage. If you are SURE that all the cable connections to the various posts are spic and span, and your batteries test good, look for this...
Haha they ride real smooth when heaped up to the top with gravel. Even gas powered, there is demand for dump trucks for site work etc. $5000 is selling price running with all repairs done. Plan on 6 wheel cylinders which is a huge amount of work to replace.
What about putting it back? How on earth do you expect to get precise torque wrench readings while hugging the front axle? Reassembly is a precision task that needs to be performed in a clean well lit shop.
Did you check the nitrogen pressure? I think it says 60 psi. You can tell which parts Rod Hall added because they are black painted. Have you done a similar “catch air” jump with your other hmmwvs so you can compare?
In the FMTV forum. Oh and FOR SURE the driveshafts being out of phase (common) or failing the hinge test (any discernible up down movement at slip joint) will cause this, along with slinging the water pump and alternator too.
Thanks for the epilogue. Lesson learned, CUCVs should not be considered reliable until considerable preventive and predictive maintenance has been done. The injector pump seems to have a 10? year life between overhauls regardless of usage.
You will need to narrow down electrical or fuel issue. Put a voltmeter on the solenoid power lead at the injection pump to eliminate that cause. Then chase fuel issues.
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