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Cab tub, doors, seats, WS, dash W/ instruments & switches, lights and wiring harness, steering wheel and upper column, complete engines, PTO (parts), winch DS, etc, etc.... I could use all that to nicely fix and upgrade any old M35!:)
G.
I'm sure you mean less backspace for the HEMTT's...
The A3 wheel/tire centerline runs over 2" inward compared to the same for a HEMTT wheel recentered with a 1/2" plate, mounted inside.
G.
Possibly a broken tooth. Remove the top and take a look at the 5th gear set.
See this post here https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?14128-transmission-noise.html#post192673
G.
Nice work! [thumbzup]
Column from a Gama-goat: that was m35tom's suggestion.
Air bleeding the system should be completed after only a few times steering full right/left. Best if front axle is jacked up while doing so. The system will not develop its full power if you still got air trapped...
YES, everyone doing what you did...
See this thread: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/5-ton-up/62093-stud-length-rear-axles.html
which has this link: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/5-ton-up/51124-m813-wheel-studs.html
G.
I suppose you already saw my post here?: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/32924-14-5-xl-rear-tire-harmonics-2.html#post354685
Same over here, for anything over 35"/150lb !! - which implied doing it in my own shop... and with very good results so far!
G.
Poly-urethane adhesive (search for Sikaflex 221 or equivalents).
X-many uses like car/ truck body repair as well as marine applications, sea containers and therelike.
G.
It may not be that heavy but yes, much more than a stock 20x7.5"wheel + 9.00-20 tire which comes close to 220lb.
In addition to it, if you decided to retrofit an A2 with 14.5 tires/11"wide wheels you better do balance them, before. Even if you are not planning to go faster than 45mph....
G.
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