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Well, don't know, prob. not... But who cares; we already learned that keeping front wheels & tires (yes even brake drums!) well balanced makes a huge difference for everything going over 25mph. Unbalanced front tires, be it super-singles or not, will cause anything ranging from slight shimmy to...

:ditto: .... And don't forget tire/wheel balancing! I would put that on top of the list... G.

YES, outer hub seal P/N 7061238. OK, now I can understand your original question...! Actually what you did with the fronts is leave those seals out (which is how these trucks come from factory). BTW, when others here were complaining about hot (rear)hubs, and excessive bearing preload was...

All of us sure have our own internal flag at half mast today! So sad; he left much to soon....! R.I.P.

I must agree 100%! It makes no sense (other than maybe improve bodywork skills & self-confidence... :smile:) to do extensive repairs on surplus parts you can find in almost new condition for little over scrap value. Certainly not my case in my area... so I know exactly what's involved! John...

OK, I'll try to have a small drawing with dims. by tomorrow. Should be no problem replicating any of the affected parts. Best if you had access to a press brake, of course...!? G.

Same as for 2.5tons..... 1st type is the early 4-ball style, both are true CV-joints, last type pictured (6 balls) is said to be much stronger/durable. No problem running them mixed. G.

There is no rectangular tubing anywhere, that I know of. You mean the "pockets" for the vertical troop-seat legs? or the C-channels for the bed frame? I can get you any measurements you want; just shoot some pics of the area in question. See...

If you mean outer spindle-to-hub seals like in the rear hubs, yes they can be added for extra protection but most don't have them. (Should be the same type of grease on both sides) Just to clarify: do you - or do you not - run them?:???: G.

See diagram below.... (or http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/6225-pto-speed.html#post53650) G.

REALLY???? That's interesting! Please explain your trick to avoid dry-rot on the outside and swelling/ripping apart from grease/oil contact on the inner side; for both, the zippered AND the 1-pc boots....!? G.

The X-large turbo housing (compressor side), plus different exhaust elbow W/ bracket, plus the square, special intake elbow/cold start device are all typical for the original LDS427-2. Later depot rebuilt versions came with the "normal" C or D turbos and other parts identical to the 465 models...

Glad to help when possible!:) If you ask me I find that the flipped-hub version looks better AND you have only one valve type, the same for all 6 wheels as well as the spare! G.

Super-nice 5tons on HEMTT wheels, with rear hubs flipped; pics borrowed from other members here..... G.

LOL... I know exactly what you mean, even if I have never operated a 5ton dump myself. BTW, I didn't like the original set-up on my first dump-Deuce, where the bed lift has to be controlled with the left foot on the clutch pedal - thus having to sit inside while dumping. So when I built my...

Stop engine. Disconnect linkages to/at both PTO shift shafts. Shift manually and confirm all shift positions according to diagram below. Place in N/OFF and start engine. No shaft should turn with clutch released. You may also check/clean both poppet ball & springs, while there. Re-connect...

Yes, most probably Newstar. I got two pairs of that famous brand, put one on, had to replace them only 6 months later. The other pair went directly into the scrap bin; after 1 year storage they were already showing signs of dryrot! Self-destructing 1pc rubber boots IS an old problem that still...

I have never had the chance to look inside one of the GMC T-cases.... Fact is that IF (BIG "IF") your's is a T-136-21 TC with the two sprag clutches AND that forward clutch is still operative... then the truck would drive (or roll) backwards only a few feet until driveline wound up enough to...

:funny: I was going to ask what the "work" part really was.....:smile: G.

Not exactly Tom; I'm sure we all wish it was that easy...:-) There still is some frame-drilling, -trimming and reinforcing to be done to get it right in place. Drawing below shows the bolt holes for the stock manual gear plus original reinforcement plate, vs. the new pattern required for the...