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It's actually an O/ring held in by a nylon retainer....no, you don't have to remove the tcase to replace it. its a 5min job....you just need to clean up the area, remove the lever. You will need something point and sharp to pry the retainer out.once that's out you will need to dig the oring...

16yrs I have owned a HMMWV, have gone to far to many venues to even remember and not once did that ever occur to me...and this is why I have insurance.

While the Govt requires run flats...there is NO guarantee they are in there after 30yrs. while we are still seeing some 8 bolt rims on bias ply 36 RT's....I would throw them all in the garbage immediately. and get radials....the bias ply just plain suck....and I wouldn't trust a 20-30yr old...

Let me throw this out there...I have bought several rolling chassis's in the last several month from various sources. NONE of them me with anything more then a bill of sale from the seller....they are Gp trucks, I only know this from a decal. If I'm just Joe public....I have NO idea there are...

We will all assume going in reverse fixed it...?

This was a problem when I bought a truck...just outta the blue I checked my acct and found it was ready for pickup. It shouldn't take an act of congress to get a programmer to set up a way to get notified when a critical event occurs. its funny, GP does a lot of stuff right....but the stuff that...

I have seen the detent on the sender at the tcase get stuck, unscrew it and check it...you can push on the ball detent to activate and deactivate the T/C lock lamp...but as others have said, you have to drive a few feet in reverse to fully unlock the tcase.

Why? Just replace yours....they are in every 6.2,6.5 and 6.5TD in the US military. It's all mechanical....

You don't have to have an extended nose to add a turbo engine, it's for the ECV and up variant with larger, longer cooling stack. You can an an ECV extended nose onto any HMMWV regardless of engine and cooling stack...I've done it.

AM general does not sell direct....you have to go to a distrubotor like Kascar or hummer parts guy

It's from a armored vehicle, it's not supposed to go in a HMMWV. Some troop added it....it needs 24v and ground.

You said the edges were beveled....you can always bevel them more with a grinder.

Sounds like it just need to be driven...this can happen if your rear diff stub axle are worn. That's is why the dealership replaced them. It's annoying as ****. Just drive around and ride the ebrake. If the rotors are over heating, they are going to discolor and glaze over.

Is it shuddering only at low speeds? Usually when coming to a final stop is what I have experienced. my 98 did this for years, would shudder badly at low speeds,in parking lots when the pedal was lightly applied, worked fine for regular braking....one day, it just went away. but not till both...

I thought you only had one sticking caliper? anyway...those brakes get hot, just from drving, especially when new. i just did a set on a truck and just up and down the street they couldn't be touched, way to hot. yoi could alway put the old pads on and see if you are having the same issue, not...

Disconnect one of the calipers. And cap off the line...then drive the truck. those calipers are known to seize up...it's not uncommon. But it's also just as common for them to shudder for some time till the new,pads break in.....did you do rotors too? i personally don't do pad swaps....I always...

And at the same time GL quietly jacked up the final valuation fee from 10% to 12.5%. its a business guys...the process is the process, the hold up on a lot of this paperwork is not an in house issue, it's a process issue throughout the system. Things in the Govt move slow! Im sure GP would love...

Finally, someone doing it right...it's a breath of fresh air. As you have found, yes, you must lift the body up to get the old harness out....but only if your going to keep the old harness. If not, then it can be cut out at the beginning and end of the frame rail along the body and the old piece...

You can only add an after market turbo....or go full factory comversion.

That backing plate is not used....I also ONLY use AM general and Hawk pads. This is what's used on the the Hummer H1 as well. The pads must free float. Did you replace the rotors?