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An H1 was selling for close to 150k, so 180-250k per truck with all the bells and whistles is not that much. its all relative, this alot of times includes support, parts and logistics. You would have to see the Actual contract. does anyone really want to go to war in a truck that costs 10k? I...

NO....outside temp will not affect the operation of the glow plug system on a completely cold motor. the TSU senses coolant temp....if it's below 120deg or so....it's going to cycle the glow plugs. my GP's have cycled on 100deg days on a truck previously driven to events and later started, say...

Makes me wonder if we are paying for this and not the Afghan Govt. http://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/am-general-awarded-356-million-contract-to-build-1673-hmmwvs-300306883.html

The 80mph speedo is electronic, so it's not mechanical...the longer cables enters from the front of the drivers footwell, the short one enters from the side.

I had a GP truck that did the same....bad EESS. Put in new S3 and new glow plugs...all good.

There are 2 versions of speedo cables...the old style is short, the new is long, the excess actually should be up in the engine area and it routes differently then the old short one. The new routing actually has the cable making less abrupt turn and lessens kinks....

Let me add....if your tcase is filling up and your tcase vent or other vent is disconnected....your going to get your excess fluid in the tcase exiting through vent due to an over full tcase...if your vents are all good and connected, you will get ATF from the tcase in the geared hubs, diffs and...

Ummmm...if you losing trans fluid and keep adding it and it's still low...assuming there is none on the ground, you have a broken cooler loop in your tcase....get a 5 gal bucket and get under the tcase, remove the "fill" plug...if you get that gallon back, you know where your problem is, no...

Any HMMWV will work for your purpose...

They were used by US forces...Spec ops mostly.

oh boy....I'm more interested in what paper trail it has...if any.

and just what does "said" conversion cost?

they get removed...as well, you have to flip the bolt around on the lower control arm to install the milemarker winch plate. this is a pita to,say the least on the left side. I can also,tell you the bracket you are referring may be the wrong bracket. the actual milemarker frame bracket is void...

What is a CMTH?

latex is quite easily chemically stripped..you can apply just enough to get off the latex and it won't bother the CARC underneath. They even sell it in spray cans...go slow, take your time, paint is ALL about the prep work. The actual paint job for an entire truck is an hour. As you can...

The wire you connect the "yellow" lead to is 568...that wire before you started was connected form the engine harness to the lead coming off the generator. Like I said....you are creating a loop of 568 to run through the tach to pick up the signal, it then returns to the generator. the truck...

Yes, the yellow lead gets cut off, a new Packard connector gets put on.this way it plugs into the harness. if you don't have Packard Connectors, just go buy some crimp type bullet connectors at the auto store, a male and female and cut both leads off and crimp them on so they plug in. The way...

yes, and as you have stated, your looking for the signal, and the tach don't care where that comes from. the yellow ring lead gets removed and a corresponding Packard connector is installed, the harness is just looping the connection from the engine harness into and through the tach, then back...

The truck in this thread is one of the trucks I installed a Tach in with a 60amp gen....

your alternator is fine...I have installed that setup on 60amp gens many times. I have no idea where you guys come up with these assumptions. The tach install is quite simple....I have the instructions in the shop. but I'm not in the shop yet today...