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not so much that, but aluminum is treated with alodine to prevent corrosion and allow,for paint adhesion, it makes the aluminum appear golden brown in color. When you sandblast, this alodine finish is removed. I tell people if your going to paint a HMMWV, read on how to paint an...

You have to adjust the modulator....but that's how they come from the factory. your not really supposed to feel it shift....

If you have a green label EESS, it will come on hot or not.

Never sand blast to bare metal on a HMMWV...if your going to metal, chemical strip it.

it appears to be a rebuilt 218 tcase....but as others have stated....use 2 pieces of 3/8 hose and loop both the trans and the tcase back into each other....but what you haven't done is determine if you even have the broken cooler loop. just make sure you tcase is full, make sure your trans is...

If you want to know if your solenoid is at least clicking....pull the front right side wire on the IJ pump, turn start switch to run, pull the plug cover back to expose the wire lead, touch that lead to the post inside the plug on IJ pump and see if you here a clicking of the solenoid as you...

There is no way your getting 0 ohms on a glow plug...brand new from the box you may get 1.5 or even higher. you need to pull the plugs from the engine and test them on the bench...

you can't bypass the solenoid if it's bad...if it's bad, it's bad. the cold advance is not required to start the truck...the fuel cutoff solenoid is, if that goes bad, you only have one option...replace it. Your truck won't start because it won't allow fuel to flow.

I have all those in stock from kits that used the kit but didn't use the belts....pm me if you want to buy a set...there are 3.

I meant it's easier for the Op to post a pic of the Tcase so we can see the model type....if you read his OP he is not sure what TCase he has....and No, I'm not going to post a pic of the 2 different 2 cases if that's what your inferring. i have none for starters....but feel free Kurt.

If it were me? I would just buy a takeout trans from a member who has upgraded to a new drivetrain and wants to sell his takeout. Seen them for around 500.00

Easier to post a pic of the tcase....

These truck are preloaded at the factory, your camber is normal. If you want to correct, remove the shims behind the buckets...but good luck, the rears are a total B***h. It's all labor...an alignment for a HMMWV is mucho expensive if taken to a shop.

Yea, how much came out? Also, check your trans level...if it's low and the tcase is overflowing, you have a broken cooler loop. To bypass the cooler loop, just use a piece of 3/8 trans hose and loop the cooler back into the 2 nipples, then do the same for the 2 tubes coming form the trans tubes...

The end with the hole in them pointed down is the correct mounting, that is for the tow bar to attach.

How bout post the part numbers you have?

Possible...but you still have your splash shield rubber to keep the air from rushing out the sides. an ECV radiator is just longer. And if your extended nose is done with the correct side metal shields for hood lighting, that will also help. But I doubt anyone is going to that extent. i have...

Ok...you dont need to replace the front DS, just the rear and mid shaft....you will be hard pressed to find the 2 on the open auction sites, they do come up, but the old stuff is much more prevalent. i just order the new ones...you can't cut or lengthen old ones. The mid shaft uses larger...

The truck is airlifted from the airlift towers and through the tailgate sling guides to the frame shackles on the rear for non bumper trucks. the TM only shows them to be brackets...perhaps there use is in another TM for tie down or recovery options..

They are tie downs for rail car movement....which makes no sense to me, but the tie down decal shows these 2 point for rail car transport. There are platypus of other tie point. also, when you sling a HMMWV with no bumper, you go through the tailgate, that why it says "sling guide" on the...